treecarecanada.ca

The Joy of Wood Anatomy

2011-12-15T03:08:00.000-08:00

One of the most enjoyable chores is splitting wood. This article could just have well been called things you see while splitting wood.I know many people find this tedious and it can be dangerous. However if you know what you’re looking it can be a fascinating as any forensic drama on television.

Trees do not heal like animals, cells in wood, generally, do not recover when injured.

When compromised, the thick walled cells in wood are closed off from there adjoining cells by rot resistant chemicals like phenols and turpentines. Much the same way watertight doors are closed in a sinking submarine. These are the same chemicals that have been extracted for hundreds of years to produce wood preservatives and are the basis of many paints.

While these have largely been synthesized in modern labs, trees still produce these protective phytochemicals each time they are injured. It still surprises many people that trees are living dynamic beings, even if they are completely immobile in their environment.

Trees and woody shrubs contain or compartmentalize damaged plant tissue behind these strong chemical barriers and continue to grow over the injury. This process of compartmentalization prevents disease from entering the healthy tissue and overwhelming the plant and causing its death. A true case of life over limb, to save its life a tree will lose a damaged limb.

Back to the task at hand, while splitting wood you can find old pruning wounds and injuries that have grown over, encapsulated in new living wood. These barriers are not only resistant to pathogens they can be resistant to splitting as well! With modern hydraulic wood splitters you can power through these tough barriers and see the story contained within. I was splitting a piece of oak that had been removed for construction. The tree was at least sixty years old and very healthy when it was taken down. As I worked through the tree piece by piece I was amazed by the wood’s structure, beautiful rays and grains. As I split one large round I noticed an old branch stub that had been properly pruned many years ago and was now completely grown over. The areas of compartmentalization were clearly defined in all directions from the wound. Above, below and around, you could see the dark staining that prevented rot from entering the trunk of the tree. Whoever made the cut had done so properly and did not injure the branch bark ridge, a key anatomical structure in trees, speeding growth over the wound and preventing the expansion of decay. The most interesting part was that from the outside there was no hint, not a bump or blemish, of the drama, contained within. In fact if you look at the other side of the same piece of fire wood there is not a clue that the limb was removed and the tree had successfully grown over the injury. Any pruning no matter how minor or major is an injury to the tree. Successful limb removal involves knowledge of the art of pruning and the science of plant anatomy. I.S.A Certified Arborists are constantly updated on the latest pruning methods backed up by scientific research on tree wound response. Keep a keen eye on your firewood for these untold arbor-dramas and contact your I.S.A. Certified Arborist to plan and execute your next pruning project.

A Tale of Two Leaders

2011-11-15T19:16:00.000-08:00

The condition of co-dominance occurs when two leaders, or main upright branches, of a tree are of the same size. Some trees naturally have a strong central leader. Species like pin oak, sweet gum and white spruce are typical examples. These species can display co-dominance when pruning removes the dominant leader. When this occurs one or more new leaders will take on the role and start to compete. This leads to bark being included in the narrow “V” crotch between the two leaders. Over time this union becomes weaker and weaker as the tree grows apart.

Given the right conditions the two leaders will separate as the bark in the crotch splits and the tree tears itself apart. When the tree has been torn it is unable to form the protective boundaries that prevent decay from entering into the remaining leader. The weakened leader decays at an accelerated rate and can fail in an unpredictable manner.

Timely pruning of young trees prevents this condition from developing and causing major problems later in the trees life. If the condition already exists, cabling and bracing can help to prevent catastrophic failure and extend the life of mature trees. These measures are not complicated but need to be performed by a skilled technician. It can be quite interesting and even Gothic, the measures that people will employ to prevent their trees from splitting. The correct, effective solution of cabling and bracing are so subtle and non-obtrusive, that I have been called out on many occasions to point them out. Not so with the logging chains, mummy cables, steel welded bars, and other assorted paraphernalia I have seen used in less successful attempts.

Recently I was called out to look at a tree that I had on two occasion’s recommended remedial action to stabilize it. The tree, a mature Red Oak, had been covered with 6 inches of snow while in full leaf. The resulting stress pulled the 20 inch oak stems apart like pealing a banana. How unfortunate that the home owner declined to spend the small amount it would have taken to keep this 200 year old tree growing for another 100 years. Now they are faced with the cost of removing this giant tree a prospect many times more expensive than the original preventative action. A case of, “a stitch in time saving nine” if ever there was one. I.S.A. Certified Arborists are trained to identify and recommend corrective action to prevent the destructive forces that can be released in a co-dominant leader failure.

We Can Spare Some Green for the Forest!

2011-10-15T13:34:00.000-07:00

Trees and green space provide real quantifiable benefits to urban environments. People can exist for years, life times some times in environments void of green space and nature. We call these environments prisons, jails and , penitentiaries. Part of the penal punishment process is the intentional removal of all these natural things that contribute to the human experience.
The results of this de-naturalization are predictable and well documented in both institutional and traditional housing situations.
Increased violence, isolation, decreased sense of well being and increased crime and suicide rates among youth.
The point being made is why would we allow residential rental housing to be built without mandating minimum provisions for setbacks, green space ,parks and recrea tional facilities.
Have our urban planers all gone for lunch at the same time? I suspect not!
Given the space, private home owners in all cultures develop their own gardens for their recreation and even landscape their front yards to create attractive vital neighborhoods.
In our home towns we need to advocate for the building of neighborhoods and the end of rental housing wear houses.
Green space is the catalyst for neighborhood and community development.
Central Park in New York City revolutionized the concept of protected, preserved, public space for all the inhabitants of the city to enjoy. It has been under development pres sure from before it's construction and continues to need vigilant protection.
Real-estate development is a business and rightfully is concerned with maximizing profits for share holders. Planning boards and urban planers act on direction from city co uncils who are elected by their constituents. People must be willing to step forward to make sure guidelines are in place to create urban neighborhoods and not allow tracts of housing wear-houses to be built. With no green space or recreation facilities mandated into development plans we will be left with socio-cidal landscapes with increased crime, higher youth, and domestic violen ce and ultimately the ghettoization of our cities.
These issues will add to policing and other public service cost increases. And as public service implies the costs of theses dysfunctional landscapes will be passed on to we the people.
Pennies lost on increased development costs will result in dollars saved in long term social costs.
And the result will be better, safer neighborhoods with increased property values.
Put in trees, sidewalks, play spaces and people want to stay, interact and form communities.
ISA Certified Arborists know the values of well placed green assets.
Many consult with developers and urban planners to help our cities to be as healthy and growing as the trees within them.

Major Cuts

2011-09-15T16:37:00.000-07:00

Far from the latest denizen of destruction for the social safety net this article focuses on one of the most destructive practices in pruning. Removing large limbs or whole stems is destructive and can lead to major tree failures. This can be in the short term or even more dangerous, in the distant future.

The scenario usually involves a structure, like a home or garage that is being built or added on to, realizing the beauty and utility of a stately mature tree the home owner decides to locate the addition close to an existing tree. The dialog usually goes like this

” I would like to build X right next to this tree and the builder says that that major limb has to go so it won’t hit the roof/wall/door”. “I need to have this 14 inch limb removed 10 feet up in this 60 foot maple tree”. What I would like to reply is “Can you move the garage over to the other side of the property where there are no trees? “ But not wanting to come off as a smart Alec I will try to explain the consequences.

Making major cuts on the main stem of a healthy tree opens the trunk up to invasion by wood decay organisms and creates structural instability in the entire tree. Trees prevent decay by compartmentalizing the damaged wood. They produce rot resistant barriers using chemicals that the tree fabricates at considerable expense. The tree doesn’t head out to the hardware store and buy turpentine or stain it literally makes it! It doesn’t put it all on the credit card either however it uses its precious energy stores to create these protective bio chemicals. Then it concentrates these protectors in cells near the injury. Once these cells have been used as protective barriers they die and become nonfunctional to the tree. It is a very energy expensive process. These protective zones can be hundreds or even thousands of cells deep. They disrupt the normal flow of nutrients and the tree has to grow over them to close the wound. This will take many years and when it has grown over, the tree will have a large hidden defect that can break unexpectedly. The results can be catastrophic not only for the tree but for the structure that has been built so close to the compromised tree.

There is good evidence and many studies that also show that the removal of large limbs causes internal stress that can crack the interior wood of the tree and weaken its structural integrity. In nature major limbs rarely break and when they do as a result of extraordinary force, they break far away from the trunk and prevent decay from entering the main stem. Many times after storms the trees that fail are ones that have been pruned drastically low on the trunk in the past. Please consider all the options, including complete removal, before making these types of cuts. The practice of painting wounds is not first aid and would require an entire article to explain why it often does more harm than good.

If you are considering construction close to mature trees contact your ISA Certified Arborist to develop comprehensive pruning plan.

Circled Roots

2011-08-15T16:38:00.000-07:00

I spend the majority of my time examining trees. And I really like that! However lately I have been noticing more and more trees with circled or girdling roots. The outward expression of this condition can be very obvious, a large root or group of roots circling a tree above the surface of the soil quite clearly strangling the life out of the tree above. Or it can be practically un-noticeable, a buried root that circles around below the soil level choking the life out of a seemingly healthy tree. And the signs can also include thinning tree crown and eventually die back. Trees generally have a pronounced widening at the point where they enter the ground, called the basal flare. The tissue at the base of the tree is a mixture of trunk tissue and root tissue that is very tough and resistant to insects and decay. If you have ever burned piece of a stump it takes forever. If you have tried to chop a stump out with an axe you will know how tough this tissue is. In fact one of the most common ways to remove a stump is to grind it out like you would grind a rock.

Root tissue is different from this transitional trunk flare tissue and will not join or graft to it when they come in contact. When the root tissue tries to grow over the trunk tissue, the tissues continue to expand compressing the trunk tissue. The phloem in the trunk tissue, the outermost layer of living cells is responsible for transporting sugars back down to the roots from the leaves where it if produced. The phloem becomes blocked and compressed by the root pressing against it and results in further swelling above the blockage. This continues until the tree completely blocks itself or the root is removed.

This past weekend I purchased a Japanese black pine on a standard, while I was planting it I discovered several girdling roots. Fortunately they were small and I was able to remove them with a pair of pruners while I was planting it.

The lesson learned is that even small trees can have potentially large problems. You must carefully examine their roots and take corrective actions. Roots should move away from the trunk in a pattern resembling the spokes of a wheel. If they circle back or cross other roots sideways to the trunk, problems may be looming.

Three seasons ago we were able to identify a potentially fatal root conflict on a Dawn redwood. We were able to excavate the root collar with high pressure air and carefully remove the root. Typically the results are slow to show, however this particular redwood made such a remarkable recovery, you can barely see where the root was circling the trunk. If appropriate timely action is taken the problem can be averted and the trees life extended.

If you have trees with troubled roots contact your ISA Certified Arborist to develop a root recovery plan.

Root Grafts and Dutch Elm Disease

2011-07-28T18:19:00.000-07:00

This isn’t the first or the last article written on Dutch elm disease. Tragedy strikes when I see a formerly healthy elm tree stricken by this typically fatal disease. The horror scene, leaves turning yellow and brown and clinging tenaciously to its expired vase like form.

Dutch elm disease is a fatal vascular disease that infects and kills North American Elm trees. This fungal disease Ophiostomata Ulmi is spread from tree to tree by Elm bark beetles. The disease travels long distances by bark beetles living and breeding in Elm fire wood.

For many years I would mark one or more trees for removal in this one shelter belt of trees in my survey area. The City would come quickly and remove the tree to prevent the spread of DED to the next tree in the row. The following year we would come out and the next tree in the row would be showing signs of a late season infection. These typically are small stunted leaves that emerge, turn brown and die quickly. This differs from the more typical late season infection where a healthy normal tree has a branch or two that suddenly turn yellow and brown. Some leaves drop but many are left With hanging on the branch. This symptom is called “flagging”. Late season infections trees sickly and stunted die early in the season.

Late season infections are typically caused by overwintering elm bark beetles spreading the disease spores as they burrow into the trees bark. This direct injection of Dutch elm disease directly into the vascular system of the tree overwhelms the tree causing death the following spring.

The row of trees was being treated successfully year after year to reduce the population of overwintering elm bark beetles and no other trees in the row were affected, just adjacent trees.

The only possible way for the trees to become consistently infected was through root grafts. Root grafts occur between trees, typically of the same species, where the roots come in contact with each other and physically bond. Trees pass fluids, like sap, electrical signals and bio-chemicals between them through these grafts. Unfortunately root grafts also allow diseases like Dutch elm disease to pass between trees. Once you take the diseased tree down the sap flows back through the roots and into the next living tree grafted to the infected tree that was removed.

We finally broke the chain of infection by taking down the infected tree and the next two uninfected trees in the tree row. The next year the remaining trees were uninfected and remain alive to this day. Roots can also be root pruned and separated using a deep plow, trencher or ideally by excavating with high pressure air. If you have elm trees on your property contact your ISA Certified Arborist to develop a disease management plan.

Tree Fertilization

2011-06-05T04:28:00.000-07:00

The topic of tree fertilization can be a controversial one. I personally have been on both sides of the fence on this debate which tends to have two primary views. One view is , “Trees do well in the woods and fertilization in your yard isn't needed”. The other view is that, “Trees in their natural environment recycle nutrients and your yard the soils and nutrient recycling are far from ideal”. The first view is one that I held before I spent many years studying trees and their responses to supplemental fertilization. I have developed an understanding for the second position after years of careful observation.

Your yard is a harsh place for trees, the soil has been compacted and modified to such an extent that it no longer bears much resemblance to the loamy duff of the forest floor. Forests are harsh environments, but they are places that trees are uniquely adapted to survive and thrive in. Trees exist in communities and grouping that balance nutrient requirements. Unseen battles for scarce nutrients take place in the forest and result in the forest you are looking at. The trees in your yard certainly would not exist as a community naturally in the woods. I no longer think fertilization is “ Snake Oil”. When correctly prescribed, formulated and correctly applied it is one of the most beneficial applications you can make to your trees.

The results of fertilization can only be seen over time in the growth and development of your landscape trees. Any gardener knows that to keep a plant alive you must water and fertilize it as needed and on a regular basis. If you don't they simply struggle and fade away. The basic N-P-K of fertilizer, nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, come in a variety of formulations and forms. For trees it is important to have a substantial proportion of the nitrogen in a slow release form that is available to the tree on an extended basis.

There are a variety of ways to apply tree fertilization, broadcasting on the surface, drilling and placing granules into the soil, tree spikes, low pressure high volume hose end feeders, and high pressure liquid injection systems. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, having used all of them over the years I do recommend high pressure liquid injection as my method of choice. This method has the advantage of being able to quickly and accurately, both important considerations, deliver the correct blended fertilizer and soil amendments to the root zone. As we have discussed many times in the past most tree roots are in the upper 12 inches of the soil where oxygen and water are available. Soil fertility, micro nutrients,soil pH and root stimulation are only a few of the areas that can be addressed using the correctly formulated soil injection. The important issues of formulation, timing and proper application can be prescribed by an ISA Certified Arborist. If you want your trees to thrive and prosper, contact your ISA Certified Arborist.

The Depths of Planting

2011-05-15T09:59:00.000-07:00

Root Flare on Tree Planted At Right Depth

This time of year will always find me answering questions at plant sales or speaking with students about the importance of planting trees. Unfortunately this year an unseasonal cold prevented me from speaking at either. I did manage to attend and was able to confirm the old saying that “ you have two ears and one mouth so listen twice as often as you speak”. While my voice was out of commission I was able to stand back take a few pictures and listen to one of my fellow arborists speaking with a group of 4 and 5 year olds. He, being unprepared due to my sudden laryngitis , showed true mastery in arboriculture by improvising a great presentation on trees, how important and present they are in our lives. Halfway through I croaked “ Whats in the bag?” and he pulled a small white spruce plug out of the paper bag he was holding. The children were ecstatic and without missing a beat he held the tree up side down and asked “ Do we plant a tree like this” to a gang shout reply of “ No” they all replied, flipping the tree. “ How about like this?”,the tree was now right side up and all agreed that “Green on Top” was the way to plant. So how do we go from this simple consensus to over half the trees in the average landscape being planted to deep?

The simple truth is if I you walked out your door and found a planted tree it would more than likely be planted too deep. At the mall,shopping center, park or many of my clients properties there are no shortage of these buried alive trees.

Trees grown in nature from seed are rarely planted to deep. Flooding, landslides and wind sedimentation can cause tree burial but it's rare. In our landscapes the most common culprit is planting too deep and settling after planting.

Trees almost universally flare out where the roots differentiate from the trunk tissues.

This basal flare should be your clue to correct planting depth. The flare should never be completely buried and should generally be at the surface or just slightly above. This translates to a centimeter or half inch or less above the surface of the soil. If you see a tree that looks like a pencil coming out of the ground, strait with no flare at the base it is likely planted too deep. Trees want to grow roots in a downward direction, this is called geotropism and ensures roots remain in the ground and not heading to the sky.

The process of planting a a tree or shrub often starts with a hole in the ground that is more suitable for a fence post or pit barbecue than a plant. Trees do best if planted in shallow lens like planting sites that are wider than deep. Care must be taken in most soils not to glaze the outer edge of the planting site by packing it while shoveling. Once you are done take the side of the shovel and break up the hard polished soil so the roots can easily penetrate it. If the tree requires staking once planted do so loosely and be sure to have a plan in place to come back and remove the stakes and wires once the plant has settled. If in doubt when planting trees contact your ISA Certified Arborist they are the go-to experts on tree planting and care.

Too Mulch of a Good Thing

2011-04-02T11:49:00.000-07:00

Mulch was touted as the cure for all things soil related when it first introduced in the early eighty's and has been used with much success and notable failures since. Research is currently underway to see if our current mulching practices are of benefit. To understand how mulch benefits trees we must have a few basic facts about the soil it protects.

Mulch is a protective cover for soil. Soil is an environment that contains solids, gases and liquids. As long as they are in the right proportions they work in conjunction to create the ideal habitat for roots. If they are out of proportion or not present at all they exclude roots and prevent plant growth. Too many solids and soil becomes compacted and roots can't get enough oxygen and die failing to penetrate the soil. If you have roots coming to the surface of your lawn this is the problem. If you have a high water table there isn't enough oxygen in the soil roots will be excluded. Too little water in the soil and trees and plants will dry up. If the temperatures in your soil swing wildly from hot to cold many plants will suffer root injury and possibly die.

Trees growing in the forest develop their own natural layer of mulch called “duff” this consists of many years of decaying leaves and debris that falls from the trees forming a rich insulating mat on the forest floor. The forest duff reaches a state of equilibrium decaying at a rate that prevents it from suffocating the trees that produce it.

Mulch often isn't made from the same types of trees that are being mulched. Some mulch, coming from trees that don't decay readily, like cedar mulch, can build up. Mulches made of dense materials like shredded leaves can prevent air infiltration and must be used sparingly. If mulch becomes saturated with moisture and prevents air infiltration roots will migrate in to the mulch and cause growth problems. Roots that grow into mulch will often circle the tree eventually girdling and strangling the tree. The problem is made worse by trees that are planted too deep or in pits. They are trying to grow roots out of the hole they are buried in.

Proper mulching is an ongoing process and requires inspection and occasional maintenance. You really can't just keep adding it year after year and expect it not to have negative effects. Recent innovations in mulch delivery, namely blowing it into place have made this “ Mulch Glacier Effect” a more common eventuality. To explain, if the mulch is being deposited faster than it is decomposing it builds up into a mulch glacier and starts to move down slope! It also piles up around the trunk of the tree and starts it to decompose. Trees are made of wood, a surprise to many, and placing wet wood against it causes it to decay.

Photos S. Smith

I have included two pictures that show soil profiles before and several years after a deep layer of mulch was placed on a compacted turf area. Notice the change in color and the development of rich organic loam horizons deep below the surface.

I'm still a fan of mulch applied right. Contact your ISA Certified Arborist to see if your mulch is correctly applied.

Emerald Ash Borer Update

2011-03-05T05:03:00.000-08:00

As this potent pest inches closer to your property, do you have a plan in place to protect your valuable Ash trees? Treating your Ash trees before this bug arrives has proven effective in protecting Ash trees from this deadly pest.

Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis)was discovered in the Detroit region in 2002 but was likely established in that area in the mid 1990's. This small brilliantly green insect, is from China, where it is a minor forest insect living on weakened Ash trees in it's native forests. Our native Ash trees have no natural resistance and are excellent hosts to this pest. Once infested with this pest Ash trees decline and eventually die in 2 to 3 years Small or stressed trees may die in one season. As with many invasive pests that originate elsewhere, like the Asian Longhorn beetle, it has proven a destructive pest outside its native habitat. Unlike the Asian Longhorn Beetle it has tremendous reproductive abilities and is able to fly easily, spreading quickly.

One mode of transport this beetle shares with other destructive pests is it's ability to spread by hitchhiking on firewood. Workers from the Detroit auto industry have described unpacking containers of imported auto parts in the mid 90's containing wood crates and packing materials that may have been the original source of the infestation. This scenario is consistent with the beetles life cycle that includes pupating in dead drying wood. Efforts to eradicate the pest have been largely unsuccessful, leading one official to describe it as " cutting a hole in a donut". The beetles have often spread beyond the site of initial infestation by the time they are detected and treated.

Efforts are taking place to look for naturally resistant selections of Ash as well as locate natural predators that may reduce Emerald Ash Borer's destructive abilities. What can you as a home owner do to be prepared for this pest? If it has been detected in your area you will need to protect Ash trees you want to preserve.

First you will need to assess if you have Ash trees on your property and what the appropriate action you should take. If you have Ash trees and want to protect them, you should maintain the vigor of those trees with appropriate cultural measures. These may include fertilization, root stimulants and mulching. Once EAB is close to your area, there are proven systemic treatments that can prevent infestation by EAB. Preparation and prevention are your best defenses against Emerald Ash Borer damage. Current estimates of the risk posed by EAB are described as follows:

0-5 miles from a known EAB site- Extreme Risk,

5-10 miles from an EAB site High Risk,

10 miles and greater from an EAB site Elevated Risk.

If you are in an area that is at elevated risk you should be developing a plan with the help of your ISA Certified Arborist. Take the time to contact your ISA Certified Arborist today and have your property accessed for the potential impact of Emerald Ash Borer. Panic is pointless, preparation is priceless.

An Eye For the Ancient

2011-02-21T07:39:00.000-08:00

V. Van Gogh

In my previous article I reviewed the basic concepts of Conservation Arboriculture. Two key points presented in that article were: the duty of care is squarely on the owner of the tree, and the perfect image of a young vigorous growing tree is as flawed as society's obsession with youth. We are finding out that life doesn't end at 40 or 65 and older people are vigorous, , continuing to make significant contributions way beyond mid life! Similarly for certain long lived tree species the benefits they provide to the environment and community increase exponential as they age. Simply put a tree that is twice as old will provide four times the benefits. Here is an site that allows you to calculate the approximate value of the benefits your tree provides each year to you and your community. You will be surprised and don't forget this is just for one tree.

http://treebenefits.com/calculator/

We are all familiar with the figure of the young mature tree with arching branches gracefully reaching to the sky.

This is the picture we usually have in our minds when we think of a tree.

What we are not thinking of is the gnarled trunk and stubby branches of the veteran tree.

The silhouette of a young vigorous tree makes it all to easy to write off an older declining tree as “ hazardous” or not worth the risk of keeping it.

I'm an advocate of planting, this is a key part of any tree plan however I have long been a proponent of saving trees. What we need to do is realize that the veteran tree is alive and providing tremendous benefits. Older trees provide habitat for an enormous variety of living beings contributing greatly to the diversity of the forest. Birds, mammals, insects, spiders, plants, fungi and microbes all live and develop webs of inter-connectivity in Veteran Trees.

If you have ever walked in a tree plantation with even aged trees the lack of diversity will be immediately apparent. Tree plantations and working trees have their place and are valuable. They typically are not very biologically diverse environments. Studies have shown an ancient tree in a forest grove may have 90% of the biological diversity in the whole grove.

We need to take a close look at the Veteran Tree with an eye on preservation rather than simply on hazard reduction.

As trees age they begin to die back from the tips, creating stout thick branches and stems with numerous adventitious sprouts that look grizzled and somewhat bizarre. This doesn't mean the tree is beyond hope! Its a natural response to aging.

Take the time to look at Veteran Trees, see how they have adapted and continued to survive. Recognize the beauty of the Veteran Tree. If you have an aged tree, take the time to contact and ISA Certified Arborist who specializes in conservation arboriculture and have them examine your Veteran Tree. You may save and old friend.

Whats's Old is Ancient

2011-01-19T07:14:00.000-08:00

While it is difficult to sell tree preservation techniques that have been practiced for hundreds of years as new, reexamining ancient tree cultural methods may be just what we need to do. I have been interested in preserving trees right from the start of my career in arboriculture. I used to camp and canoe along the Souris River back in the 1980's and was amazed to see what was then billed as a 500 year old Burr Oak. Even then I remember being underwhelmed by its stature. Thirty years later it is still standing and I am only now able to see the beauty of its aged form. As an ISA Certified Arborist I am required to participate in a minimum of ten hours of continuing education per year to maintain my certification. Beyond maintaining my certification CEUs keep you current with the latest techniques and methods. Most legitimate professional accreditation programs realize that with research, methods and concepts change and what you took as fact yesterday may be proven to be fiction or close to it by the latest scientific research.
As part of my CEU requirement I was excited to participate in a two part session with Philip van Wassenaer, a preeminent expert on “Veteran Trees” from Eastern Canada.
For many years fear of litigation rather than solid research has driven the field of arboriculture when it came to dealing with vintage trees. No one wants to see anyone get hurt, but there are individuals and tree companies that offset their expenses and increase their income by playing on peoples fears about older trees. The duty of care for aged trees falls squarely on the shoulders of the property owner, but they should be well informed and presented with treatment options that include preservation as well as removal. Taking these ancient giants down unnecessarily struck me a bit like drinking a fine bottle of wine just to get the 10 cents bottle deposit. Modern arboriculture has evolved from the techniques of tree surgeons and plants men of a hundred years ago and is now reexamining the very techniques that may have been discounted.

The first step in conservation arboriculture is a thorough examination of the tree to possibly be preserved. Hollows and cracks along with declining canopies do not necessarily mean that a tree removal is imminent. Carefully examining the tree with modern methods will allow a current accurate diagnosis of the long term viability of the tree as well as its hazard potential.
One of the greatest revelations from the presentation and the too short field trip was grasping the concept that trees grow for a long time, and go through senescence for a longer time. Just as the youthful or mature form of the tree has great beauty so can the gnarled battle worn veteran be a beautiful presence in the landscape. With this new knowledge I rushed to the computer and found an image of The Souris Old Oak Tree and it is in exactly the beautiful mature form that Philip had described.
If you have a “Veteran Tree“or are interested in tree preservation contact an ISA Certified Arborist who is knowledgeable in the techniques to preserve and maintain these ancient giants

Time to Plant

2010-12-29T12:17:00.000-08:00

The best time to plant a tree was 20 Years ago the second best time is right now. This old Chinese saying gives us pause to think at this time when our thoughts are far removed from planting. If you're like me you have already started to receive and peruse next years garden catalogs. Its nice to look back over the past years or years plantings and reflect on what worked and what didn't . I started planting back in boy scouts and haven't stopped!

I was driving along mountain road a few years back and was surprised to see that a forest had grown where there was only marginal farm land in the early seventies.

There is much that can be done individually and even more that can be done locally . This is an age of local actions and global results. No one is going to pick up the shovel for you or locate the trees or find a suitable site!
I have given these key steps in reverse order intentionally, now we will review them in the order they should be placed in. Before you can plant a tree or trees you should always have a site plan. If you are planting in your own yard you may not need permission, if you are planing a public or common space planting you will have to determine who the proper person or persons are to get access. See if they have a policy in place and have a brief idea of the location you would like to plant in. Having a plan In place will help you to clearly articulate your intentions to the appropriate persons and make it easy for them to give you directions and prevent confusion.

You may want to plant alone or with a small group of helpers. Tree planting is a lot of hard work and is also a lot of fun. Selecting the right tree for your chosen site is very important. this would be he right time to consult your ISA Certified Arborist who will be able to help select the correct tree for your site. Once you have planted your tree make sure you have a plan for after care. Trees planted in yards typically have better soil conditions and nutrient levels then those planted in boulevards or along streets. Arborists are experts on local planting conditions and may advise you to have a soil sample taken to test for fertility.

The larger the tree you are planting the longer it takes for it to recover from transplant shock. The generally accepted rule is an inch of trunk diameter per year of recovery. For example. One inch in diameter tree, measured at 4 feet above ground, will take one year to reestablish itself and start to put on new growth , a two inch- two years and so on. The larger trees really give immediate visual impact but are harder to reestablish and more prone to failure. This is probably why the small trees I planted , only a few inches tall, survived without much help after being planted by unskilled pre-teens who struggled to handle a spade!

ISA certified Arborists are tree experts and the original tree huggers who have the Skill and knowledge to help make your planting a success. Reach out to your Arborist and get his advice on your planting project and success will be much improved. You may not be able to plant today but you will be able to plan.

Buried Treasure

2010-11-19T12:09:00.000-08:00

It often amazes me how peoples lack of understanding about the growth habits and nature of trees can reach such depths of ignorance. Before I rant on about post construction tree decline a little background will make sure we are all on the same plane. Trees are among the longest lived organisms on earth. There are trees, trembling aspens that have been growing from the same roots for tens of thousands of years, individual bristle cone pine trees have been know to grow beyond a thousand years. It is unusual for trees to get this old but not unheard of. In the forest an oak tree may live to be 300 years old, in a city park this will be reduced to 150 years, in a typical yard, 75 years and 7 years in a planting pit on a street. The longevity problem for most trees isn't genetics, its site conditions. Trees obviously can not move, but with modern construction equipment we have the ability to change site conditions drasticaly in little more than an instant. Most modern site preparation takes a few days which in the life of a tree is pretty much instantaneous.
The same trees, same genetics, different sites.
7 years to 10 years is the average time it takes for a tree to decline and die post construction.
Trees are not utility poles, they are not fence posts or pipes that can be buried and forgotten. Trees are not carrots, they have wide expansive root systems that are living, breathing and growing just like all parts of the tree.
With all this in mind and having seen thousands of trees on hundreds of sites in various damaged and declining states. I was shocked when I came upon the following scene.
A mature 28 inch Eastern hemlock had toppled in a strong wind, but its normally shallow root system had not popped out of the ground, in fact it was still 30 inches below the soil surface. At some point in the recent past the area had been regraded and the hollow the tree had been growing in for 50 years had been filled in, bringing it up to level with the surrounding trees. There was little outward indication of damage, with the exception of the lack of root flare, the swelling at the base of trees where it goes into the ground. Close examination of the fallen tree revealed this feature and the first true root, 24 plus inches below the soil surface. All this complaining would be only for my benefit if I didn't pass the following information on. If you have an ISA Certified Arborist come out prior to construction you will dramatically increase your trees chances for survival, if you follow their recommendations. If you have an ISA Certified Arborist assess your situation and make recommendations post construction you will have a greater survival ratio of your construction impacted trees.
ISA Certified Arborists are the recognized experts in tree preservation, before, during and after construction. Contact your ISA certified arborist before your greatest treasures are buried.

Tree Searching

2010-10-29T16:01:00.000-07:00

Information and knowledge are not the same. Online search engines have a wealth of information but they may not impart any knowledge that is of use to the seeker. A popular TV commercial has people conversing using information searches from various search sites and it ends up in meaningless chaos.

What does this have to do with the care and preservation of trees? Plenty. If you were looking for a particular plant disease, for instance, Rhizosphera needle cast , a disease that can seriously injure Colorado Blue Spruce, your search is just as likely to end up looking at knitting needles or plaster cast construction guides. While this information is extremely useful it may not be the knowledge that you need to see what is defoliating your trees.

Chronic Google Heads spend hours trying to sift through useless information for a kernel of sound knowledge. How do I know this? more and more often while meeting with new clients I have to impart knowledge that I have gained through rigorous study and years of field observations to counter a few hours of Google searching. Some information is just not relevant to the particular species or cultivar, and other information is excluded because of geography, climate or soil conditions.

On one hand I am excited and encouraged by the clients enthusiasm and energy to help their plants, on the other hand it is discouraging to see so many people being side tracked by useless information. I guess that was part of my original purpose for writing this series of monthy press releases over the past 8 years.

The starting point for identifying tree and shrub problems is always correctly identifying the plant, and then the disease or insect that is affecting it.

The missing link in all this searching is a dedicated, informed expert who is capable of determining what is the best course of action to correct the problem your particular tree or shrub is having. Sometimes the best action is no action!

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying trees, shrubs and the diseases and insects that affect them. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your tree has a problem that may reduce its ability to thrive. The knowledge you gain will benefit your trees and save you time by not becoming Google-mired.

Lichen, Moss, and More

2010-09-19T03:34:00.000-07:00

Every couple of weeks I get a call to go out and look at a terrifying disease that is threatening someones prize specimen tree. It is easy to make light of this, but the sense alarm felt by the home owner is genuine, and one should never make fun of someone who is genuinely concerned with the health of trees. Typically these calls come after a soaking rain when the bark of the tree erupts into a verdant green carpet, or possibly a gray-green bouquet of fronds. The culprits are two ancient inhabitants of the forest, that may even predated the arrival of trees. Lichen have been around for at least 400 million years and their neighbors the moss are found in the fossil record back to the beginning of the Permian period, 300 million years B.P.

Moss, a fuzzy or sometimes minutely leafy, non vascular plant, is classified in the group of plants know as Bryophyta. Moss plants will grow on most moist shady surfaces like rocks, trees and soil. They prefer not to be exposed to direct light and therefore are most often found on the north side of tree trunks. Moss plants need free moisture to complete there life cycle but will survive for long period of time in a dry desiccated state. If they receive sufficient moisture they will “green up” and come to life with in a short period of time, seemingly overnight. Moss does not have the waxy outer leaf layer known as the cuticle that prevents most higher plants from drying out. Moss are able to survive on what amounts to essentially dust and rain drops. They do not harm trees and do not digest the bark they are attached to.

Lichen on the other hand are not really considered plants at all but are a curious symbiotic relationship between a fungus and an algae. The fungal partner provides nutrients and a physical structure for the algae. The algal partner is able to photosynthesize and create sugars to feed both partners. Both partners present in lichen gain moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere. It is rare for them to take any nutrition from a tree that they are growing on. Lichen are usually larger than moss and have a blueish green color. The algae partner may be a blue-green algae which would explain the lichens color. Lichen can have several different forms from crusty or crustose , or foliate forms that resemble leaves, called foliose. Lichens simple structure means they are unable to avoid the accumulation of damaging pollutants. In fact they can be used as a measure of air quality. A decline in lichen populations is indicative of high levels of pollution. The presence of moss and lichen usual indicate moist conditions, and reasonable air quality. The presence of mushrooms and other fungi may be more serious.

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying moss, lichen and dangerous tree fungi. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your tree has something more serious than moss .

Any Ash is Good Ash?

2010-08-19T08:20:00.000-07:00

Photo K. Arrell

When I was learning to identify trees I had an instructor who was great at coming up with catch phrases to remember tree I.D. I still remember his comments on ash trees which I have used as the title for this article. Ash trees have long been prized for its adaptability, survivability and versatility. Lately it has also been in the news for its susceptibility.

Anthracnose is a common fungal disease of both green and white ashes. It occurs seasonally in spring and can result in the defoliation of the lower third of the tree. Buds, twigs, and leaves can become infected. Typically leaves will exhibit irregular or sickle shaped distortions as well as blotchy lesions.Severely impacted leaves may be shed from the tree and should be removed from the area as they are a source of reinfection. On occasion the disease may attack the petiole, or leaf stem resulting in extensive defoliation. Cultural practices general are effective in reducing the extent of the disease and preventative fungicides applied at bud break should only be used as a last resort.

Ash yellows is a vascular disease of ash trees is caused by a phytoplasm, a type of microbe. Both white and green ash are affected as well as a dozen other ash species. Susceptibility varies among species and individual trees with the most severely impacted trees dying within months. More resistant trees may last for years with various symptoms. Stunted sickly growth, and the presence of witches brooms, thick broom like growths, are the main symptoms. This disease is spread by insects that feed on leaves by sucking sap. Maintaining the vigor of less severely impacted trees may prolong their lives, heavily impacted trees should be removed.

Ash plant bug is a native pest that does damage to ash leaves by inserting its sap sucking mouth parts into the upper surface of leaves. This action causes yellow stippled areas that may coalesce into large yellow patches. The feeding may cause browning and distortion of foliage that can be confused with anthracnose. One key way to differentiate between the two is to look at the underside of the effected leaves and you may find black spots, waste from the plant bugs called frass. These insects have two generations per year and may cause extensive damage. They are easily controlled by a number of insecticides applied early in the season , including horticultural soaps and oils

Emerald ash borers are a newer introduced threat to ash trees. The original infestation was probably the result of green wood in the form of packing materials that originated in the beetles home range, Eastern Asia. The adults themselves feed on the leaves of ash trees but cause little damage. In late June to early July, they lay their eggs on the bark of ash trees usually in cracks crevices and fissures. The eggs hatch, burrow into the inner bark, the cambium layer, and begin to chew their way though the vascular cambium in up to foot long serpentine feeding galleries. The tree is unable to survive the injury to its vascular system, starts to wilt and die back and will last only one to three years once infested. Avoid transporting ash nursery stock or fire wood.

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying ash disease and insect problems. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your ash tree has problems.

Root Self Exam

2010-07-19T06:15:00.000-07:00

Few tree failures are as tragic as ones caused by girdling roots. This condition, caused by roots that have circled the main trunk growing to eventually strangle the tree, results in a slow decline and eventual death of trees in their prime.
This condition can occur with a wide variety of trees, maples, cherries, plums and pines are a few on the ones I have personally observed in the last few months.
Normal root systems extend from the root flare at the base of the main stem and move away from the stem like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. The roots that cause trouble, circle around the tree and constrict the main stem. Tree roots that cross other roots further away from the main stem cause little damage and my even form unions or grafts that result in no damage at all.
If you let the girdling roots go unchecked they will eventually cause the tree to die back and decline to the point of failure.
Fortunately you can easily observe tell tale signs that are indicative of root problems on your own trees.
Trees should have a basal flare where the main stem meets the soil surface. This sometimes pronounced swelling should lead from main stem to root in smooth curve.
Flattening of one side of the stem can indicate a buried root that is pressing on the main stem and causing stress on the trees vascular system. The root actually compresses the tissues of the tree preventing the movement of water up the stem and nutrients down to the roots. You may even see decline on that side of the tree. Small leaves and reduced growth on one or more sides is another typical symptom. If you are able, grasp the tree and slowly shake or try to move it, it should be firm and not rotate. Small trees with girdling roots will move like the stick shift in a manual car.
Occasionally, the tree will not display any outward obvious symptoms yet will fail when extreme weather conditions overwhelm the trees circulatory system. Periods of drought or extreme heat can result in this type of failure. Once the tree has failed a close examination will reveal the obvious signs of girdling roots. Take a look for these telltale signs:

Large roots that are visibly crossing the trunk of the tree
Lack of typical root flare on one or more sides of the tree
Yellow or smaller leaves on one side of a tree
Recessed, inverted or flattened root flares that curve inward like the point of a pencil
Instability in small trees when manually shaken or pushed

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying and correcting girdling root problems. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your tree has rooting problems. You may be able to limit the damage caused by girdling roots and prolong the life of your tree.

Lessons Learned From Dutch Elm Disease

2010-07-15T17:01:00.000-07:00

Dutch Elm Disease, a typically fatal vascular fungal disease of North American elms, has been around a long time. It was first described in the 1920's in Northern Europe but soon made its way to North America and was wide spread in Eastern North America by the 1950's. Shade tree committees and tree surgeons alike mobilized or try prevent or slow the spread of the disease. Depending on climate and success in controlling elm bark beetles, a vector for spreading the disease, there were some successes. There were however tremendous losses in areas where the type and behavior of elm bark beetle was not conducive to control or where people were slow to organize to control the spread of the disease. While elm bark beetles are the primary vector for spreading the fungal disease they need habitat that is suitable for them to survive and thrive. Native elm bark beetles have a life cycle that is limited to one generation per year and they overwinter by burrowing into the bark at the base of elm trees. This leaves them susceptible to control methods that target them while they are overwintering. European elm bark beetles have a different life cycle that does not allow them to be controlled using these methods. However European elm bar beetles, do not survive extremely cold winters and this has prevented them from migrating much further north than the State of Minnesota. Winnipeg, Manitoba along with other Western Canadian cities now have the largest intact urban elm forests in the world. The survival of these forests would not have been possible without cost or the ongoing efforts of generations of concerned professionals and citizens alike. These costs are minor compared to the value of the resources protected.
But what lessons have been learned from this on going battle? Beyond the species and disease specific lessons, the need to actively care for and manage urban trees and the greater urban forest has been the most important lesson learned. Many of the current generation of I.S.A. Certified Arborists had there first experience in arboriculture in the battle to fight Dutch Elm Disease.
The second great lesson learned is the necessity for diversity in our urban plantings. In some areas at the height of uncontrolled Dutch Elm Disease epidemics, towns and villages lost in excess of 50 percent of their forest canopy. The planting of single species urban forests should have stopped but this was not always the case. In many areas towns and villages are now losing their replacement canopies of ash to emerald ash borer.
The third lesson that should have been learned is that trees add tremendous value to our urban environment. Not only the intangible “feel goods” but real dollars and cents benefits. Increased property values, effects on heating and cooling, storm water retention are just a few of the benefits that we can actually calculate.
I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in tree preservation, selection and planting. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist before you undertake tree planting and your landscape will maintain it's diversity and value for years to come.

Planting and Selection Quick Tips

2010-05-29T05:03:00.001-07:00

Tis' the season to roll up your sleeves and dig in to the dirt!
Before you head out to your local nursery take a few moments to considered the following tips before purchasing or planting a tree or shrub,

Location location location,
You will have greater success if you have already determined the location you wish to plant and its attributes.
What is the sun exposure? All day, part of the day, under a forest or tree canopy?
If grass won't grow in the location it is probably best suited for shade plants.
There are a number of trees and shrubs that grow in the understory of the forest.
Most fruit trees require a lot of sun, generally these must be planted in full sun to archive good growth and fruit production. Soil is important not only in quantity but in quality and depth as well. Trees that like to have cool moist roots will not thrive in rocky areas or rock ledges covered in soil. It is always a good idea to dig a test hole before you purchase a plant for a particular location.

Selection, selection selection,
When you are at the nursery look for fresh healthy stock, go early in the day when crowds are less and you can take time to pick out the best stock. Good form and branching habit will pay rewards long after you plant your tree or shrub. The plant with the most flowers isn't necessarily the best or most healthy. Look for good leaf color and signs that the tree has been handles well. Broken twigs, disturbed soil, or scuffed containers can indicate the plant has been dropped off a forklift or worse. Check the root collar to ensure rodents or insects have not girdled the bark and damaged your potential new tree. Take your plants home promptly and plant them, cars are not greenhouses and are an abrupt change from the nursery environment. Lastly water your plants thoroughly once planted to eliminate air pockets in the root zone and improve the chances of survival.

Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in tree preservation selection and planting. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist before you undertake major tree planting and your landscape will maintain it's value for years to come.

Tree Support Systems, Props

2010-04-29T05:01:00.000-07:00

Occasionally as a result of a storm or old age trees will loose their ability to remain upright.
The obvious option is to take the tree down and plant another one to replace the damaged one.
However when a tree fails or begins to fail in our yards people have come up with interesting ways or supporting them and allowing them to continue to survive and even thrive.

When people become attached to trees in their environments they will work tirelessly to preserve and lengthen the life span of “their” trees. This is a sentiment and passion that I share as an Arborist and person who appreciates all aspects of trees. If a tree falls in the forest, free from humans who rightly or wrongly have sentimental attachments and impose their mortal shortcomings on trees, it falls to the forest floor and is recycled.
In your yard this may not be the option you are looking at first.

Cables, braces and ground anchors are used frequently to stabilize trees that are falling over or are in danger of falling over. This article will focus on an other lesser used method, the tree prop or crutch. Just like the crutches used by people when they have broken limbs the tree prop is a sturdy typically wooden post used to support a broken limb or leaning tree. The ideal basic prop is composed of a sturdy rot resistant wood, such as oak, cedar, or locust. The top should have a
u shaped crotch that is capable of supporting the tree or limb that is failing. The prop, or props should be of sufficient diameter to support the tree or branch it is placed under.

Trees are living organisms with their vascular tissues living anf functioning just under their bark. Any prop system has the potential to damage the vascular system and this should be considered,
Attaching props by lashing them to the tree should be avoided, unless the lashings are replaced and re worked every year as the trees grow and expand. Crutches with v or u shaped branch rests should be inspected and adjusted frequently to prevent partial or complete restriction or girdling of branch tissue,

Tree lovers have come up with many ingenious systems to support and maintain our tilting trees.
It is important to make sure whatever system you have it is safe and will not fail suddenly endangering people or pets. Keep in mind that the props are usually dead wood and are decaying while the branches they are holding are alive and getting more massive with every season.

Regular inspection and pruning are a must if you are propping up aged trees. Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in i tree preservation and maintainance. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist before your tree is tilting or in danger of failing and your landscape will maintain it's value for years to come.

After the Storm

2010-03-23T05:07:00.000-07:00

One day you will wake up and your beautiful landscape will be a shambles, a mess, a total disaster. It may look like a whirlwind has spiraled through your life's work or a groggy giant has

slept on your favorite maple. While it's unlikely that a mythical monstrosity has visited your yard,

you may very well have been visited by a storm or even a tornado. What you do next will have a lasting affect on your landscape and your life.

Our home landscapes contribute approximately 10% of the overall value of our homes. Even with

home prices stagnating, or in some areas declining this reduced percentage is a substantial investment. The action you take in the days and weeks following a major landscape disaster will pay dividends in the long run. Proper assessment and planing are the keys to maintaining and recovering the value in your landscape.

Making sure you have access to your driveway or the doors to your house is essential. Getting access safely may be a bit more difficult. This may be your only interaction with a tree that has fallen on your house, drive or valuable shrubs. Fortunately there are licensed,experienced and importantly these days, insured professionals who deal with these problems year round.

An assessment of the damage by a qualified ISA Certified Arborist is the right first step to take. Your Certified Arborist will safely remove the tree that is resting on your house and take the right steps to save trees and shrubs that are toppled or damaged. Certified Arborists and professional tree care companies carry special insurance that covers them for work on the ground and in the trees. Most landscape companies and general contractors are not insured to do work on trees or shrubs that are not on the ground or below six feet in height. This insurance is expensive, but it ensures that should any damage or injury take place while cleaning up your catastrophe your home and finances will not be at risk.

One may think your local Certified Arborist would be the busiest person after a storm event sadly, in many cases, its the doctors at the local emergency room. All to often this is the second trip a homeowner makes after they go to the hardware store and purchase a chainsaw.

Much of the clean up can be done by the do it your selfer but it is always worth while to consult with an experienced professional before you inadvertently do further damage in a rush to clean up. Most insurance companies will insist on getting a quote from a licensed, insured tree care professional before you remove that tree from your home or other structure. Take pictures for your records before you attempt any clean up. This can be very important, should questions arise on your claim. Many branches and even whole trees can be saved by the correct timely action of a trained professional. Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in issues related storm damage clean up and tree preservation. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist after you have a storm and your landscape will maintain it's value and be poised for recovery in the months and years to come.

Soil pH Primer

2010-02-23T05:32:00.000-08:00

THE EFFECTS OF SOIL pH ON NUTRIENT AVAILABILITY

Few things in gardening are so essential and so misunderstood as soil pH. Simply put pH is a measure of the acidity in soil. A basic soil test will give you all the information you need to make informed decisions on plant selection based on pH. The balance point for pH where a soil is said to be neither acidic or basic if a pH reading of 7. The acidity increases as the pH number decreases for example, a pH of 5 is more acidic than a pH of 6. Because the scale is logarithmic, rather than arithmetic, an increase of one point increases the acidity of a soil by 10 times, 2 points on the scale would increase acidity by a factor of 10 x10.

In the opposite direction on the pH scale, a soil with a pH of 8 is ten times more basic or alkaline than a soil with a pH of 7. The effects of soil Ph are far from simple, the acidity and alkalinity of soils directly effects the way most nutrients are taken up by trees and shrubs. It also effects the essential soil organisms that grow, thrive and interact with each other in soils. Fungi, bacteria, and other microorganisms depend on certain pH levels to function within soils.

Generally moist soils with lots of decomposing plant material, like the soils on forest floors, will be acidic. In contrast dry soils, from areas where grasses are the predominant vegetation will be less acidic and more alkaline. Parent material, the underlying decomposing rock that composes the gritty portion of the soil, also has an effect on the soils inherent pH. Soils that originate from volcanic rock sources like granite or basalt, tend to be acidic. Soils that originate from sedimentary rocks like limestone tend to be more alkaline.

With the basic background in place we can talk about the effects of soil acidity on plant growth.

Acidity in soils can be pictured as a key as one increases or decreases pH, certain soil chemicals will become unlocked and available, even to the point of toxicity. Similarly some soil chemicals will become locked or bound at certain pH levels and will be deficient and unavailable to trees and shrubs. All plants have ideal ranges of pH where they and their supporting microorganisms

can grow and thrive.

In your garden certain trees that prefer acidic soils, in the 4.5 to 5.0 range include blue berry, azaleas, hydrangeas, sweet gum and pin oak. As the soils become less acidic in the 5.0 to 5.5 range, most conifers including Scots pine, irises, ferns and similar plants will do well.

As we further decrease the acidity to the 5.5 to 6.0 range trees like white oak, bass wood, sugar maple and shrubs like boxwood or raspberry will do better. As you approach neutral to basic or alkaline pH's dry land species like ash, box elder, lilac as well as dogwoods and crab apples are in their ideal pH range. It is much better to pick a tree or shrub based on its pH requirements than to try to adjust the pH of the soil on your site. It is difficult but not impossible to raise or lower your soil pH. These processes take time and skill and will have to be monitored and adjusted on an ongoing basis as each site has its inherent pH based on parent material and existing vegetation.

Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in issues related to soil pH and are available to help with plant selection and diagnosing nutrient deficiency based on soil pH

Turn Turn, Spinning Wood Into Gold

2010-01-31T14:17:00.001-08:00

Photo D D

The long dark days of winter can lead to cabin fever or interesting hobbies.

The ancient Egyptians are given credit with inventing the first practical lathe around 1300 BC.

And spinning wood has been fascinating mankind ever since. This first lathe was a two person design that used an assistant to pull a rope spinning the wood, that was carved by the master.

The Romans adapted this technique adding a bow to the process allowing for more consistent speed. In the middle ages a foot pedal was devised allowing one person to operate the lathe much like a treadle sewing machine.

Lathes and turning techniques can be divided into two basic techniques, spindle turning face carving. Spindle turning involves putting a piece of wood between two spinning points and carving it as it spins. This method is used to create spindles, dowels, table legs and baseball bats. Face turning utilizes only one turning surface to which a piece of wood is attached. This method is used to carve bowls platters and other open face items.

Wood turning was probably mechanized in a manner similar to grain mills, with animal, water and wind power. The advent of speed and consistent power was a big step forward and allowed for mass production. While mass production isn't the goal of the hobbyist or artisan carver the modern electric lathes are the end development of close to 4000 years of consistent improvement.

While your wood turning may only be a hobby it is one way to add value to the wood you grow in your woodlot or even your yard. Turning often utilizes small pieces of wood that have interesting grain or other defects that may make them unsuitable other woodworking processes.

Branches and burls that have been pruned from trees in your yard can be turned into valuable and cherished items. Relatively common woods like birch, maple and oak can be used to make extraordinarily beautiful pieces.

There are wood turning clubs and organizations that help those new to the world of wood turning to learn basic methods and make the right decisions on equipment.

While talents and skills are not developed over night, the process of learning them can be quiet enjoyable. A trip to a local lumber yard may point you in the direction of individuals or groups that can help you get started on your wood turning adventure. Mood turning can be a fun relaxing hobby or even more.

Be sure you wear appropriate safety equipment as spinning wood, sharp tools and lots of wood chips can be dangerous.

Winter Wildlife Tree

2009-12-27T15:35:00.000-08:00

Photo Amy P.

As the holiday season is upon us our thoughts turn to feasting and other indoor activities.
If your a person, who like myself, enjoys the outdoors and wooded areas on a daily basis
stormy winter weather can be particularly frustrating ! Here is a way to fight cabin fever, do a few crafts indoors with friends and family and help wildlife keep warm on those wintry days.
This need not mean making a trip to the craft store if you are handy and have imagination.
A properly adorned Wildlife Tree can attract Blue Jays, Chickadees, Cedar Waxwings, Nuthatch, Woodpeckers and many other seasonal varieties.
While we are all familiar with suet baskets, these can be spruced up by putting rendered suet into onion bags that have been cut into colourful 12inch by 12 inch squares.
You can mix in a few sunflower seeds or other bird seeds as the suet cools to add interest
for the birds. Put the chilled suet in the middle and bring the corners together and tie with cotton butcher cord. Be careful if you use wire or plastic twine as these can damage trees if they are not removed promptly and can injure wildlife if they eat the twine.
Raisin icicles can be made from raisins strung on waxed dental floss. A good sized needle will help to string them and you can store them in a cool dry place until you are ready to place them on your tree.

Frozen cranberries and florist wire can be fashioned into a wreath that will light up your tree and delight wildlife. If you plan ahead you can gather up crab apples and use florist wire to hang them

dumbbell style over branches. If you didn't plan a head you can still cut a few oranges or grapefruits in half and after having a delicious glass of juice fashion these into citrus cups that will brighten up your wildlife tree. After removing the juice and as much pulp as you can punch three holes around the rim of the citrus half and use cotton

or other natural twine to hang the cup from the tree. Store in a cool dry place like the refrigerator for a day or two before filling them with nuts, seeds and other goodies once you hang them on the tree. A small hole near the bottom will keep excess moisture from building up.

These items don't have to be exotic, even a few stems of wheat or barley tied together into a flower cluster, with a small sunflower will attract small birds. Indian corn or whole sunflower heads can be used as well.

Pick a tree away from your house and in view of a convenient window, like the one over the kitchen sink to ensure you will have a good view. You can use a spruce tree or other evergreen to give good contrast and some shelter to birds and squirrels that are munching on your bounty.

Assemble all the ingredients and have a wildlife tree trimming party!I have included a picture of a whild life tree that I came across on the grounds of a local college. A great activity for faculty and staff! This could be a great family tradition that you can start the New Year with.

If you have a tree that your not sure about hanging things off of contact your ISA Certified Arborist to see if its sturdy and safe.

After the Fall

2009-11-15T06:32:00.000-08:00

Fall has arrived and the leaves have fallen...or have they!

Trees typically loose their leaves in the fall and signal the changing of seasons. Sometimes the complexities and variability of climate can trick trees into not loosing their leaves. The trees individual circumstances can prevent their leaves from falling as well.

The primary process at work in leaf drop is abscission. The term abscission is from the Latin, Ab meaning away, and sciendere, to cut , “ to cut away”. You needn't wait until fall to see this process in action as it happens all the time in woody plants, every time a flower or piece of fruit falls from a branch.

Fall leaf drop is by far the most spectacular example of abscission at work.

Leaf drop and the formation of the abscission layer, a group of cells at the base of each leaf, is controlled largely by day length and its effects on the production of the plant hormone auxin.

Actively growing leaves produce auxins and they are translocated through the petiole and into the branch that the leaf is attached to. The presence of auxin suppresses the cells forming the abscission layer and prevents them from expanding. As the leaf ages and day length decreases it reaches a point where it no longer produces enough auxin to suppress the growth of the cells and they expand. This expansion closes off the passage from leaf to stem and the leaf is cut away from the stem. This is the complete process of abscission. Sometimes early frosts, or and late summer rains encouraging new growth, resulting in partial leaf drop. This incomplete abscission is unusual but not unheard of.

Typically the leaves eventuality fall off a few weeks later, thwarting our efforts for a timely fall clean up!

The same process allows trees like birches and box elders to loose some of their leaves during times of drought. It is quite normal to see birches loose a noticeable amount of foliage in mid to late summer. Trees that die suddenly due to injury or disease may not lose any of their leaves, this is a diagnostic characteristic of Dutch elm disease.

Evergreens such as spruce and pine do loose there needles continuously through out their lives typically in the early fall of the year.

Most evergreens keep their needles for three seasons. When stressed they may lose many of their second year needles as well.

There are some trees, oaks, beeches and hornbeams, that have developed a different strategy and will retain some of their leaves throughout the winter.This phenomenon is called marcescence. This is very common in younger trees and is there fore considered a juvenile trait, one that some trees grow out of. Marcesesnce may provide some protection from roaming deer and moose that live on buds and trigs through the winter. Buds that are protected from browsing by dead leaves may survive to grow next season. The retained leaves may provide protection from dessication in areas with harsh winter winds.

If have trees that have failed to loose their leaves and are concerned with their health contact your Certified Arborist.

Seasonal Safety in the Woods

2009-10-11T10:30:00.000-07:00

Art Work, GF

Fall can be a very scary time in the woods and here are a few tips to keep it from getting even scarier time of year many people are getting ready to welcome people to their woods for a ghoulish night of fright. Indeed many classic horror shots take place in the woods.Now is the time to make sure your haunted fun doesn't turn into a nightmare.
Paths should be kept free from debris and fallen branches to prevent startled trick or treaters from unexpectedly falling when that Wicked Witch flies by. Trees should be inspected for dead limbs or rotten bases that may cause them to fail unexpectedly. If you are attaching props to branches make sure the branch is up to the task. A careful inspection will make sure your ghoul on a rope doesn't unexpectedly come crashing down on someones head. When selecting a branch to hang items from, always make sure the branch is alive and well attached to the tree before you hang your bag of bones from it. Throwing a rope over the branch and giving it a test tug, not while standing under it, is a good way to test for stability.

I always recommend wearing a hard hat and safety glasses while working in your woods. If a tree falls in the forest and no one hears it, it will still make a dent in your head. If you are attaching pulleys to ratchet up a frightful fellow, take the time to properly attach it to the tree. A correctly installed eye bolt and pulley system will last years and can safely raise the faux dead. Never use hardware store gear to climb or lift living people as it is not rated for this use and can fail unexpectedly.

If you are working on a ladder make sure it is sturdily placed or secured to the tree with a rope. Don't over reach and have your ladder come out from under you. A real scary fact is that in accidental falls from above six feet, half are fatal. Be safe keep your feet on the ground. Tree climbing gear is tested and rated for professional use. Contact your Arborist if you have more elaborate set ups that need to be put high in the trees. Removing deadwood before it falls on your deluxe display or has grave consequences is highly recommended.

Another potential safety hazard is electricity. High voltage accessories like strobe lights and projectors can add great punch to your haunted hollow but make sure they don't add unexpected sizzle. Use only fixtures rated for outdoor use and make sure they are connected to properly installed ground fault protected outlets. It is a great plan to contact your electrician and discuss your set up to make sure it is safe and well supplied before you throw the switch.

There are few things scarier than a well placed up light on a mature oak tree.

A walk through your woods with a professional is always a good idea and it may prevent unexpected horrors and trips the the emergency room. If you have questions about the stability of branches or trees contact your Certified Arborist. Have a safe and happy Halloween

Fall Web Worm

2009-09-30T09:51:00.000-07:00

Photo K. Fosty

The fall web worm is a gregarious fellow who likes to get together with friends and eat your prized fruit tree or ornamental. Fall is the time of year when these caterpillars pitch their tents and throw a feast! However, with our climate the French name for these lepodopterans is Chenille à tente estivale, “worm who puts up a tent in the summer time” seems a bit preemptive.

Hyphantria cunea is common all over North America but in it's most northern range, Canada, it only manages to get in one life cycle per year. The insects over winter in pupae attached to fallen leaves and emerge in the spring as adults. The adults mate and then the females lay their eggs on the underside of leaves covering them with silken threads. The eggs hatch and the party begins, munching their way through foliage at an alarming rate. While they eat they excrete silk to create a protective nest. They can often be seen grouped together in their nests early in the morning or on cold days. Typically the host plants for these indiscriminate feeders includes, apple trees, balsam poplars, choke cherries, pin cherries, trembling aspens, white ashes, white birches, white elms, and most willows.

Typically the damage is mostly cosmetic, especially when you consider that the trees have already gotten some energy from the leaves and within a few weeks of lose them. These insects rarely eat all the leaves on a tree and seem to only enrobe a branch or two for their harvest festival.

If you have the stomach for it you can remove the nest by hand or with snippers in the morning and eliminate the problem. They are susceptible to a number of control methods including insecticidal soap or strong stream of water. Check the label on your product of choice or contact a professional to clean up these insects. Cutting out the webs when they are young is the preferred method, and be sure to bag them and dispose off site. A few hours in a black plastic garbage bag in the sun will eliminate any chance of them surviving. Tie the bag tight as they will try to escape and as I found out set up shop in the trunk of your car! If you thing you have this gregarious group dining on your prized specimens contact your Certified Arborist.

Fall Planting Tips

2009-08-30T06:55:00.000-07:00

Fall is unfortunately the forgotten season for planting.

Spring, the traditional time to plant, is the busiest, most crowded time to visit your local nursery. Many trees can be planted in the fall and the prices at the nursery can be very reasonable.

I received a call the other day from a valued client who was thinking of replacement plantings for a few trees taken down over the last few years. A quick consultation over the phone started the process to selecting the right trees. We were able to get together at a nursery and chose two trees that suited both the site and his vision of the landscape.

We were also able to avoid trees that would cause problems in the planting locations further down the road. When looking for the right tree it is important to consider the growing conditions at the site. Three major considerations are shade tolerance, drainage and soil conditions. There are many trees that do well in partially shady locations, few that do well in deep shade and many that require full sun to grow and thrive.

Growth habits of the tree are very important when considering the final location. A tree that grows into a large shade tree should not be planted to close to buildings. Trees that produce

flowers are great to use a focal point in the garden during their flowering season. Be sure that the fruit they produce doesn't become a nuisance by dropping onto your patio or deck. Fighting with wasps and flies or constantly washing your fruit stained deck is not a lot of fun.

Some flowering trees produce no fruit and still provide you with great colorful flower displays.

There are trees that retain their fruit and provide wildlife a valuable food source through the winter. Watching winter birds gather fruit and seeds can break up a grey winter day.

Once you have your choices, more are better, go to the nursery and carefully examine their stock .

All trees are not created equal, or at least they don't end up growing that way. Even among cloned cultivars there can be tremendous differences in branch structure as well as cultural artifacts that you may want to avoid. We are not talking about shards of ancient pottery in the growing media, what I am referring to are the various issues that may be present in the nursery that will cause problems later. Trees that have groups of roots spiraling around the base of the tree should be avoided, pot bound trees will fail in future years. While you are looking at the roots look at the base of the main stem, does it have scars or damage from old injuries? This could cause rot at the base of the tree resulting in failure. Following up the trunk look for branches that are co-dominant or have included bark. If you want a tree that has a strong single leader avoid ones that have large branches separating low down on the main stem. Take a close look at the amount of growth present this year and in past years. You can do this by looking at the length of this years growth back to previous years bud scars on the branches. Trees that seem to be growing less each year should be avoided.

Generally younger smaller trees will establish quicker and last longer in the landscape than a larger mature tree. Once you have found a tree that best suits all your needs and have checked it for faults its time to negotiate the price and planting details with the nursery. Selecting good trees right from the start is the best way to ensure great trees in the landscape. If you have more questions about tree selection and planting contact your Certified Arborist.

Soil Gas

2009-07-30T16:44:00.000-07:00

Land Fill Without Trees

Soil gas is often the forgotten member of the the soil composition trilogy. While the solid and liquid proportions get all the attention the soil atmosphere is often left literally up in the air.

Soil consists of 3 primary components solids liquids and gases. The solid components take up approximately half of the total soil volume and consist mostly of minerals and a small percentage of roots, plants, and animals referred to as the organic component. The other half of soil consists of even amounts of soil water and soil atmosphere.
While the solids and liquids perform obvious functions like support and nutrient transport, soil gases are more nebulous in their critical relationship to tree growth.
This need for air should be second nature to us all as we share the need for oxygen with our green friends. Without oxygen there is no life and gas exchange is critical to all plants. While
green photosynthetic tissues give off oxygen they also give off carbon dioxide when they burn energy to create chemicals and perform life processes. This process is called respiration and we animals do this part ourselves. Roots and stems do not normally photosynthesize and respire almost exclusively. They need and ample supply of oxygen and good gas exchange to keep everything in order.
Presence of oxygen is the reason that 80% of all tree roots are concentrated in the upper ten inches of the soil.
The arch enemy of soil gas exchange is soil compaction. Soil compaction reduces and can even eliminate small pore spaces in soils. Without soil pore spaces fresh air can not enter the soil and sour gases from decomposition or plant waste processes become toxic to tree roots. Tree roots will often be seen growing at or close to the surface of the soil. More than a futile attempt to anger the lawn mower, this is an indication of compacted soils. Soils that are saturated with water also force tree roots to grow closer to the soils surface. Excess soil moisture can exclude soil gases and eliminate root activity. This is what happens in the classic case of killing with kindness by over watering potted plants. The same thing can happen to trees and shrubs in our landscapes.
The composition of soil atmosphere can have a beneficial or detrimental effect on root activity. Loose porous soils exchange gases like carbon dioxide, created in root respiration and allow for fresh oxygen laden air to reach actively growing roots. Benificial mychorizal fungi benefit from the presence of oxygen and depend on gas exchange to thrive.
When soil moisture levels are high, oxygen levels become low and tree roots die and decay. Roots decaying with out oxygen give off toxic gases like methane that further injure living roots and soil organisms.
In some instances buried or decaying vegetation or construction debris in the sub soil can give off toxic gases that kill roots. Yards that are built on fill or with soil that has been deposited on existing vegetation when grades were drastically altered can slowly decompose. Decomposition gasses are the primary reason that trees are seldom seen growing on old landfills. If you have more questions about soils and soil composition contact your Certified Arborist.

Verticillium

2009-06-20T04:21:00.000-07:00

Few tree diseases rival Verticillium for sheer tragic loss. Unfortunately it often appears first thing in spring and the initial indication of its presence is a dead or dying tree. This disease effects a number of tree species but is very commonly the demise of maples. When it comes to maples this disease isn't picky, it can wipe out a prize cut leaf weeping Japanese maple or a weedy box elder without warning. Ash, some linden, buckeye, and russian olive can also fall prey to this potentially fatal disease.

Verticillium dahliae is a soil born fungus that invades the trees vascular system. The disease enters the trees vascular system from the roots and moves upward in the xylem as spores. Toxins produced by the disease and the trees response to the fungus results in wilting symptoms. Very often a tree will be infected with this disease and recover, losing only a branch or two. However later on when when put under stress the tree may be overwhelmed and fail completely. The disease persists in the soil for up to ten years as highly stable fungal structures. Once an area is known to have verticillium it is recommended to plant resistant replacement plants. Generally burr oak, apples, birch trees, walnuts and most conifers are resistant to this disease.

The typical symptoms mimic other vascular fungal diseases like Dutch elm disease, flagging and wilting of leaves and branch die back. In fact the field diagnosis for verticilium is cutting a branch and looking for staining in the sap wood just under the bark. Positive identification in the field should be followed up with a confirmation by a laboratory. In the lab they will put chips of the diseased sample on a petri dish and grow it to confirm the presence of the disease. In elm trees the filed sampling can sometimes result in confusion, but verticillium generally isn't fatal in American elms. Dutch elm disease however is fatal 99% of the time in non resistant elms. Of 100 elm trees sampled and showing staining of the inner bark, less than 2 will have verticillium the remainder will have Dutch elm disease and will be dead by the time the lab results get back to you. I have sampled the same elms several years in a row, with the lab results coming back positive for verticillium consistently. Some of these trees are still standing. In contrast to elms in maples the first sign of verticillium is often slow stunted leafing out in the spring. When this overall infection is present the tree will most likely fail with in weeks and simply dry up and die.

There is a strong correlation with root disturbance and the onset of verticillium infection. It is not recommended to dig tunnel or cut roots near maple trees. Incidence of this disease is low in natural stands. Once a tree has verticillium it is impossible to eliminate it from the tree or soil. Fungicides are ineffective in treating this disease. Maintaining the vigor of the plant is the best plan of action. Fertilizing with a low nitrogen high potassium fertilizer with added beneficial bacteria and root stimulants is of benefit. Generally this should be done as a soil drench and not as a deep root injection. Root injection may result in additional root injury and should be avoided on trees susceptible to verticillium. Trees under moisture stress are more susceptible to verticillium. Wood chips from these trees should be composted and allowed to heat up before using them in landscapes. If you think your tree may have a problem contact your certified arborist.

The Big Dirty

2009-05-28T16:37:00.000-07:00

A Novices Guide to Tree Planting

As a young Scout I had the good fortune to plant trees on the east side of Riding Mountain. Many years later while working in the area I was able to locate the area where we had planted and marvel at the forest that was growing in the rough pasture.

The instruction we received was “ stick in your shovel and before you pull it out, put in your seedling”. It was a good thing we were planting trees by the hundred because our success rate was pretty low. If you are planting trees and want to be successful here are a few tips that will increase your odds.

Keep your tree moist,

Never let your trees roots dry out well planting. Roots take up moisture by osmosis, they have no control over evaporation and when left in the sun they will dry out quickly and die.

Dig a big hole.

Always make sure you loosen a large area of soil to allow your tree room to grow. A good hole is wider than deep. The depth depends on your root ball, or root depth if you are planting bare root trees. Your roots should never bend up out of the hole like a “J”. The roots should spread out on the bottom like an upside down “T”

Use the soil you took out of the hole to back fill the the tree

Mixing a little of the soil from the root ball into the back fill encourages the roots to venture beyond the root ball and into the planting site soil.

Make sure the sides of the hole are not glazed.

If you rough up the edges of the planting hole you will have more success and less circling roots. Digging with spade or a power auger can result in a glazed, root resistant planting site.

Never plant your tree too deep.

Make sure the first branch is well above the original soil surface and the first root is at or just slightly above the original soil level. You can lay your shovel across the top of your planting pit to make sure you are above grade. Tree roots seldom grow upwards and planting too deep is often a slow death sentence.

Cover your roots well.

Place the soil around the tree once you plant it and gently push it into place to reduce the amount of air around the roots.

Water your trees after planting.

Watering trees right after planting sorts out the pore spaces in the soil and ensures that the roots will be in contact with soil moisture. This greatly increases the chances of survival.

Ask your Certified Arborist

Arborists are experts in tree selection and tree planting, a quick consultation will help to ensure your success. If you are ever driving on Mountain Road you may catch a glimpse of my “ Trees for Tomorrow !”

Subtle Art

2009-04-30T16:45:00.000-07:00

Pruning trees and shrubs is a subtle and evolving art.

While we could spend many pages debating the intricacy of bonsai or the angles of espalier, we should focus on everyday pruning.

Many times when I have properly pruned a tree a client will comment “it hardly looks pruned”. I always take this as a complement, and will explain the cuts and the rationale behind each one. When I first took my tree pruning license, the rule of thumb was no more than 33% of the crown in any one pruning session. Although it was a while ago that I took my tree pruning exam and I'm sure I wasn't number 007, I did have a license to prune. Fortunately most of the pruning was done by hand and the amount of over pruning was limited by your own strength.
It matters little if you use a bucket truck or climb the tree if you do not have a sound knowledge of the tree and its growth habits and the results of pruning it. Modern equipment increases the potential to do great harm to trees.
The 33% maximum amount pruned has been reduced to 25% and this is stressed as the extreme maximum. On more than one occasion I have suggested that the tree should be removed if you really don't want any of the branches or leaves on it. Truthfully there are some trees that are in the wrong place and may need to be removed. However if you love trees and see the great benefit that they provide, a small amount of pruning will help these giants to live with you.
Returning to the problem of over pruning, if your tree ends up looking like an ancient Greek statue you probably have missed the point when it comes to pruning. The amount to prune is always a concern for the skilled arborist. Many times potential clients will suggest doing radical cuts and extensive pruning that would undoubtedly result in damage or death of the tree. Unfortunately people seem to think that by over pruning they can get better value by avoiding future cuts. I call this the “ pound of flesh “ concept, as in “If I'm gonna spend the money, I want to see a pound of flesh”. This logic would work if you were carving stone or chopping concrete into small rocks. Trees are living dynamic organisms that contribute ascetically to our environments. The living tissue you remove is essential to the tree to create and store energy. Unfortunately the more you prune the more the tree will respond by putting out new and often uncontrolled growth. Any amount of pruning injures the tree and will create a response from the tree, managing these responses is the real art. One should always discuss the reasons for pruning and the expected results at great length with their arborist before you decide to prune. Once you have removed a branch it will never grow back and restoring form may be difficult.
Prune little, prune often is a better strategy in the long run. A few select sell placed and performed cuts will always be better for your pocket book and for your trees.

Sex and the Sycamores

2009-03-22T07:19:00.000-07:00

While you may not be able to grow sycamores or ginkos in your garden, some understanding of the complexities of tree gender expression may help to avoid messy problems in your yard.

I used to enjoy visiting a friend's verdant garden in Brentwood. She would walk around pointing out the new trees and shrubs assigning genders more or less randomly. “ That viburnum she's not happy, he's shading her out” and then my hostess would point up to the large box elder that towered over the viburnum. Judging by the seeds on the box elder I knew this wasn't entirely true. When in this situation there is much to be learned by simply listening. After a few visits I discovered that more than assigning genders, my host was personifying the trees as they were literally part of her family.

Trees express gender in a variety of ways. Typically genders are assigned by the presences of male or female flowers. Male flowers produce pollen and female flowers produce seeds. If it were that simple this would be a very short article.

Flowers on trees and shrubs can be male, female or both. In which cases the plant would be better referred to as an “It”. To further complicate matters some species of trees have individuals with only male flowers, clearly “He” trees. The same species will have trees with only female flowers, clearly “ She” trees. This same species will have a small percentage of trees that have male and female flowers on the same individuals, clearly “It” trees. Given that this may account for up to 15% of the individuals of the species it is clearly not a random mutation, rather a part of the overall genetics of the species.

While this may be a surprise, you won't have to go far to find these strange exotic trees.

Ash trees, maples, and yes sycamores all have this type of gender expression. It can be a nuisance and even an major problem if you have a seed bearing tree in an area where the seeds are not welcome. Some trees, like crab apples can be down right dangerous when they are to close to walks or patios. Slipping and falling on decomposing apples can be more painfully than getting stung by a wasp disturbed from its apple sauce dinner. If you have ever had the misfortune of stepping on the ripe fruit of a ginko tree

you will remember the pungent odor. Fortunately plant breeders have used their knowledge of plant anatomy to develop varieties that are based on male cultivars.

This ensures that you have the landscape tree you want without the seeds that may cause trouble. “Baron” maple is a good example of a seedless male cultivar of Box elder.

If you are planning on planting trees this spring, consult your certified arborist they will help insure you get the best tree for your location.

Shrub Pruning 3 Technique

2009-02-07T02:56:00.000-08:00

In the first part of this article we discussed the correct timing of pruning on most trees, shrubs and dwarf conifers. The second part of this article was dedicated to choosing the correct tools for pruning small trees and shrubs In this article we will discuss the techniques used in correctly pruning small trees and shrubs.

Terminology for pruning

Before we continue we should have a basic understanding of a few of the terms used to describe the basic anatomy of shrubs. Buds are dormant plant parts. Inside each bud is a complete bud or flower. Buds are described based on their position on the twig. Terminal buds are located at the end of a twig and lateral buds are located below the terminal bud on the sides of the twig. Buds can be arranged opposite each other on the twig or in a zig zag pattern alternating sides along the twig. The location where each bud or group of buds is located is called a node. The piece of twig between the buds is called the internode.

Techniques for pruning

As a general rule pruning cuts should take place just past the node, at a distance equal to the width of the twig. Cutting to close to the node will damage the bud and cause die back. Never cut in the middle of the internode. Cutting in the middle of the internode will result in an unsightly stub that will die back and may be an entry point for disease or insects. Two broad terms for pruning are heading back and thinning out.

Heading back is best described as when you indiscriminately reduce the size of a shrub to conform to a preset size or shape. For instance you may want to prune your carragana hedge into a 4ft by 3ft box. You would accomplish this by using a power shear to cut back the twigs in a uniform fashion. The carragana would quickly sprout a bushy broom on each tip and cover up the unsightly cuts that would result. The problem with heading back shrubs and hedges with this method is that eventually you end up with an umbrella of dense foliage at the tips of each leggy stem and little else below. Formal hedging often requires that you vary your technique by occasionally thinning out the dense canopy by cutting a series of windows in it to allow light and air to penetrate the inside of the plants.

Thinning is a more sustainable method of pruning that involves selectively removing branches back to the appropriate unions with other branches. As you can imagine this isn't done with a power shear. When thinning a hedge you need to determine your over all goal, say thin by 25% or open the hedge up every foot or so. You would then go through the hedge and cut out dead diseased and crossing branches back below the canopy by a foot or so every few feet. You would also remove healty branches back to the appropriate unions in selected locations. You could do this after you sheared it and still keep your formal look with a few small gaps. The hedge will respond by putting out new growth inside and below the existing canopy layer. Over time this method would allow you to reduce the overall size of the hedge without having it end up looking thin or over pruned.

Thinning is the method of choice when you want to maintain a shrub at a certain size and have a more natural form. When pruning shrubs in this style take a tip from your carpenter. Cut once - measure twice. You may notice that a tape measure was not included in my list of tools. You need to step back take a look at the shrub and measure with your eyes. Cut a bit and then step back and view your progress. Before removing larger branches give them a shake and see how they relate to the rest of the plant. Then remove that large branch in stages checking the form of the plant as you go. Once you have made your choice reach into the center of the shrub and cut the branch just slightly above the node of an outward facing bud. This will allow new growth to move away from the center of the shrub and avoid crowding. If you have a hole to fill in the shrub prune back to above a bud that faces the hole. Make a few cuts and then step back and have a look. Eventually you will reach a point that looks good to you then stop. If the shrub is viewed from multiple angles be sure to look at it from all sides. You can make the cuts at an angle if you wish, a clean cut at any angle is best.

Rejuvenation pruning is an extreme form of heading back that can be valuable when dealing with shrubs in mature landscapes. Over time some shrubs will become two leggy and unmanageable. You see this often in older gardens. One radical method of saving old plants is to rejuvenate them. Lilacs are the classic example of this. Lilacs need to have the older branches removed to allow the new growth to flourish. You can do this by removing the older stems back to 6 inch stubs. You leave any new shoots to take over. Typically you would remove 1/3 of the older shoots per year. In three years you will have all new shoots and a much invigorated plant. You will lose some flowers in the first few years and be rewarded with a bounty in the years to come.

A note of caution

Some plants are susceptible to diseases spread by pruning tools. Members of the rose family like cotonea aster and mountain ash should be pruned with sterile techniques to prevent the spread of fire blight. Black knot of cherry is another disease easily spread by unsterilized tools. The solution to this problem is dousing your tools with alcohol between cuts. Cut sterilize, cut sterilize and sterilize between plants.

Pruning Shrubs Part II - Tool Kit

2009-02-01T06:27:00.000-08:00

In the first part of this article we discussed the correct timing of pruning on most trees, shrubs and dwarf conifers. To recap that article, generally the best times to prune trees and shrubs are when they are dormant or just after flowering. The best time to prune dwarf pines like mugos, is while they are still candling. In this article we will discuss the

selecting and using the correct tools for pruning.

The old adage “ the right time to prune is when the saw is sharp” probably doesn't tell the whole story but pruning with dull tools is always a disaster.

The bests results come from professional-quality tools that are in good condition.

Most professionals use hand bypass pruners and pole pruners day in and day out. Bypass pruners work like scissors with two sharp blades opposite each other passing each other to making a clean cut. Anvil pruners bring the sharp blade down onto a flat surface, damaging the bark causing die back at the point of pruning.

For cuts up to ½ inch a pair of sharp hand pruners works best. Bypass loppers are over sized hand pruners that will cut branches up to 2 inches in diameter.

Loppers are sized to fit in between hand pruners and pole pruners and often stay on the shelf while the latter two tools do all the work.

A bypass pole pruner will work on overhead branches between ½ an inch and 1 inch. They also can be used for cutting low branches without bending over. For most homeowners 3 small 4 foot poles will be enough for shrub pruning. They are easier to fit in the trunk of your car as well.

Interchangeable saw heads can be attached for tall branches or removed and used as a hand saw to cut branches larger than one inch that won't fit into your pole pruner. Professional pole saw blades are readily available and will fit wooden hand saw handles as well.

Good tools will literally last you a lifetime so take the time to ask questions and get professional grade tools. Contact your certified Arborist for more information on shrub pruning and watch for the third part of this article dealing with pruning techniques.

Shrub Pruing Basics, Part 1, When to Prune

2009-01-11T08:01:00.000-08:00

Landscapes make our houses into homes. Trees and shrubs not only contribute pleasant feelings to our surroundings they add up to 15% to the value of your property.

It often takes several years for newly planted shrubs to establish and then before you know it they are on their way to becoming leggy overgrown monsters.

Most shrubs will appreciate even the smallest amount of pruning and reward you with rejuvenated foliage and more abundant buds.

Time to prune

The first key to correctly pruning your shrub is to know what you are growing. Proper identification is essential to correctly prune your shrub. Many shrubs flower on last year's growth and if you are pruning yearly you may never get flowers. The classic example of this is the lilac. Shrubs like these should only be pruned immediately after they bloom to ensure a good set of flower buds for next year.

In contrast to the old wood flowerers some shrubs only bloom on this years new growth. These shrubs should be pruned before the growing season begins.

As with so much of nature there are shrubs that don't fall into either of these categories and flower from both last years growth and this years growth. These typically flower later in the growing season and can be pruned while dormant or right after blooming.

Pruning Chart

Location of Flowers	Best Time to Prune	Typical Plants
Last Years Growth	Right After Flowering	Lilac Forsythia Saskatoon
New Growth	Before Growing Season	Clematis Spirea Hydrangea
New and Old	Right After Flowering or While Dormant	Potentilla Rose Mock Orange

There are some shrubs that we grow primarily for foliage, like red osier dogwood, elderberry, willows, and barberry. This group should generally be pruned in the winter season before growth begins. Moose prune their dogwoods in the winter and so should you.

Most conifers like spruce, juniper and cedars can be pruned at anytime with the exception of pines. Pines are best pruned in early summer when the new growth is emerging. These long shoots known as candles can be cut or pinched off at the half way point and the shrub will set new buds for future growth. If you prune pines after the shoot has fully elongated and you will be left with a half shoot. Without buds on the end it will loose its needles and leave you with a dead stick.

Contact your certified Arborist for more information on shrub pruning and watch for the second part of this article dealing with tools and techniques.

Yule Log Lore

2008-12-21T07:17:00.000-08:00

This time of year abounds with tradition and folklore. Trees and tradition are always of interest to certified tree people!

The yule log is a tradition that traces its roots back to northern Europe including England and the Scandinavian countries. This time of year is also the approach of winter solstice, the shortest day of the year. With the shortest day comes the longest night. In Pre Christian times the Yule log was lit to celebrate the end of the long dark nights as days would be getting longer.

Pope Julius the 1st realigned the Christian calendar in the fourth century AD, to celebrate Christmas around the winter solstice. The tradition of the Yule log was adopted and continues in many countries to this day.

The basic tradition is as follows:

The family gatherers a log from their property, traditionally Oak or Ash. You could be given a yule log but never purchased. It is brought into the fireplace and decorated with evergreen boughs, cider, ale or other aromatic oils. The log was then set ablaze and allowed to burn throughout the night. Some traditions will have it burn for twelve days. The burning of the Yule log always indicated the start of the Christmas festivities. English tradition has it burning from Christmas Day through to Epiphany on the Sixth of January. Other traditions include a prohibition of labor during the burning of the yule log.

An unburnt piece of the log was kept until next year and used to start the following year's yule log to maintain continuity.

While the log was burning family and friends would gather round to sing carols and reflect on the year past. As in the Scottish New Year's Song “Auld Lang Syne”, personal faults, mistakes and poor choices of the year were thought to be consumed by the Yule log flames to be forgotten and forgiven.

Variations on the Yule log theme abound, tenant farmers would gather bundles of ash sticks tied together with ash binding or ribbons by unmarried maids. Once lit, the first bindings to break would indicate the first girl to be married the following spring.

In American Appalachian country the tradition of “ Back Stick” called for a very large log to be soaked in a stream to ensure a long burn time. This ensured that the party and celebration was long lived as the revelry was permitted to continue until the fire went out.

Urbanization has led to the adaptation of this tradition. I still have a candle holder that my nephew gave me that is a modern variation on the Yule log. Made from an oak limb, 12 inches in length 4 inches in diameter, split in half, this table top log adds rustic beauty to your celebration. Three holes are drilled in the round side of the log to place candles. The log is decorated with Holly leaves and evergreen boughs. The candles have various symbolism's and are lit on Christmas Eve. French traditions create an edible Yule log of wrapped sponge cake that allows celebration when you can't start a fire!

Cherish and enjoy your own holiday traditions and have happy safe New Year!

Chainsaw Choices

2008-11-19T17:17:00.000-08:00

Professional chainsaw users know just how dangerous these valuable tools can be. Unfortunately too many professionals have learned the hard way that any time you are close to a chainsaw you are at risk of injury. The typical chainsaw combines the brute strength of 3 horses with seventy five razor sharp knives. All this dangerous potential is literally in your hands when you pick up a chainsaw. Before you pick up a chainsaw you should make sure you have the right saw for the job.

First if your chainsaw is older it may lack any of the modern safety features like inertia chain breaks, hand guards and a host of other improvements. Drain the fuel and oil and donate it to your local museum. NEVER use older style chainsaws.

Home owner saws that you buy from the local mega mart may no meet the strict safety standards required by professional users. Why should you put yourself at risk?

A common and potentially deadly event when using a chainsaw is kickback, Kickback occurs when the upper portion of the tip of the chainsaw comes in contact with an object. The teeth on the tip of the bar stop abruptly and direct all of their energy back into the chainsaw. This results in it rapidly and uncontrollably spinning in an upward arc towards the user. Modern chainsaws have safety features like inertia chain breaks, to reduce the chance of injury from kickback.

Professional chainsaws come in two basic styles and a myriad of sizes. Saws are broken down into top handle and rear handle styles. As the name suggests top handle saws have the rear handle moved to the top of the saw to allow easier range of motion while climbing in the tree with the saw. If you are not climbing in the tree do not use this saw.
Even if you have come down from the tree, switch to a rear handle saw to cut up branches on the ground.

Rear handle saws, with their trigger handle in a much safer position at the rear of the saw, direct kick back energy up and away from the user. When kick back occurs a top handle saw will rotate your wrist and hit you in the head or chest. The operative work is WHEN kick back occurs, not IF.

The largest chainsaw available may be good for your ego but it will not be good for your safety in the long run. A small to mid sized professional chainsaw will provide years of trouble free safer operation. If you really think about what you are cutting a small sharp chainsaw with a 15 to 17 inch bar will do 99% of your work. Typically these saws are in the 50 to 60cc size range. Most users should not use a top handle saw.

A chainsaw safety training class should be mandatory for chainsaw purchase. I doubt it ever will be mandatory for the home owner. Industry has been forced to provide training through legislation and increasing workers compensation costs. If you use a chainsaw you should make it your mission to get at least the basic safety training. Your life literally depends upon it.

For What it's Worth

2008-11-03T03:36:00.000-08:00

Trees have inherent value because of the useful goods and services they provide. A stack of 2x4's fours ready to turn into a new family room or that storage area you have been wanting can be taken to the till and paid for at your local lumber mart. Calculating the value of that lumber is easy! Calculating the value of a living tree is much trickier.

When you move to the services trees provide, shelter, shade, erosion control, wind, noise and pollution reduction these too can be calculated. Formulas have been developed over time to calculate these values per tree or for whole forests.

What happens when you wake up one morning and the construction crew working on the house next door is in the process of chipping up your favorite tree? Unfortunately these kinds of situations do occur and all to often they end up in litigation.

Fortunately there are arborists who specialize in this kind of tree valuation. These consulting arborists regularly deal with situations on landscapes that require accurate and verifiable appraisals of trees and groups of trees. Just as you would go to a specialist if you had a serious

medical condition, you would be well advised to go to a reputable consulting arborist if you ever find yourself in a potential legal situation involving trees.

The basic premise in calculating the value of a tree is that in most cases the landscape contributes 10% to 15% to the total value of your property. In special cases this may be slightly more or slightly less. It is not enough to take ten percent of value of your property and divide that by the number of trees and come up with a value for one tree. Doing this does not take into consideration a number of factors that effect tree value.

Consulting arborists use several formulas that allow for an accurate assessment of the value of a tree or trees. The arborist typically uses the value of the largest readily available replacement tree of the same species to start their evaluation. Next the diameter of this replacement tree and its value is used to extrapolate the value of the existing tree. Working from a chart of tree values, determined by groups of experts, a species percentage is assigned to each tree. Typically an oak will have a value of 100%. This is partly related to its value and longevity in the landscape and possibly the fact that even in colonial times oaks were highly valued. Oaks were considered the property of the king. A less desirable tree, like a box elder may only get a species rating of 50%. Trees are given species percentage values based on their attributes and loose percentage points if they have inherent problems that detract from their value in the landscape. Messy fruit, excessive branch drop, short lifespan, predisposition to rot or failure are all value detractors. Location on the landscape is then used as a weighting factor to further refine the value of the tree. The condition of the tree is then included in the calculation to take into account the physical shape and health of the tree. After a few more calculations a number is arrived at for the value of that tree. This value must than be proofed against the value of the home and the overall value of the landscape. This process continues until the consulting arborist is certain that he has a figure that will stand up in court if necessary.

If you have followed this article to this point it will be apparent that a certain degree of specialization is necessary to perform these valuations. Most arborists are able to refer you to a qualified consulting arborist if you ever have the misfortune to be in need of their services. In the end the value you put on your trees may be very personal and relate to moments in your life enjoyed under them.

How Trees React to Pruning

2008-10-26T03:45:00.000-07:00

Trees are alive. This may come as a shock that I would have to make this statement but I think that many people forget this simple fact. Trees are made of living tissue, the wood we use to make our houses and furniture is quite simply, dead. You can carve wood, you can shape it and construct it into many useful things.

Trees on the other hand can be shaped, pruned but in some cases people carve them up like holiday hams.

The tree, being alive, reacts to these injuries in many different ways. Trees do not repair damaged tissue, they wall it off and grow around it. Like the unlucky crew members of a sinking ship caught behind the watertight doors, all the living tissues beyond the trees protective barrier are left to die. If the barrier is breached by disease or further injury the tree expends its dwindling energy to erect a new barrier. If the injury is severe the tree might not be able to recover and may just die.

Trees respond to pruning in a variety of ways. The first thing that happens is the tree has to wall off the injury location. It does this by... you guessed it erecting an impenetrable barrier to exclude the damaged tissue from the living undamaged tree. The tissues around the injury are stimulated to grow over the wound and replace missing branches with more living branches.

Pruning branches that died off for any number of reasons will generally not produce sprouts or water shoots. If while removing the dead branch you cut into the callus layer that has formed where the dead branch is still attached to the tree you will re injure the tree and likely initiate the development of new sprouts. On some trees simply nicking the bark will initiate a sprout to form. Savvy apple growers have used this to reshape crowns and initiate locations to graft onto.

Trees have evolved these responses over time as a way of making sure that when the tree is injured it will be able to form new branches and continue capturing sunlight, turning energy into sugar and ultimately new tree tissue.

So what can you do to prevent trees from developing waterspouts or suckers after pruning?

Avoid pruning to much from the crown. Twenty years ago 30% was the maximum amount you were recommended to prune your tree with out gravely injuring it. Today this has been reduced to twenty to twenty five percent. This amount is probably excessive. Prune the absolute minimum amount to archive your goals. Yes you must have a clearly defined goal before you start pruning.

If the goal is to frame a view, remove the minimum number of branches necessary to do this.

Too often homeowners will ask for additional pruning to be performed to get extra value. The logic is as follows, “ This pruning is costing me a bundle, I want a pound of flesh!”. Ultimately the tree responds by sending out growth in exactly the spot you didn't want it to. Thin the waterspouts out on the trunk rather than removing them completely. The remaining sprouts will suppress other sprouts from initiating. Use sprouts that are growing in the right direction to fill in thin or damaged areas of the crown.

When you are pruning to remove dead wood use caution to not cut into the callus layer that has formed around tree branches. Time your pruning to limit the amount of new sprout growth.

Most trees will sprout profusely if they are pruned late in the winter or early in the spring. The injury of pruning at this time mimics winter injury and is certain to result in lush bushy sprouts popping up through out the crown and where branches were removed. For more information on modern methods of pruning contact your certified arborist.

Pruning Article Reponse

2008-10-04T13:39:00.000-07:00

We have a winner! A few months back I offered a professional pruning multi tool to one reader who sent in a tree pruning question or picture. See the original post here. The randomly selected winer from the many great questions and pictures we received is Mr. Dave P.

The question distilled to its essence is as follows; If you cut down a stand of aspen, Populus tremuloides, there is a technique of damaging the resulting suckers that will eventually prevent the suckers and kill the tree. Is this technique a valid way to prevent regeneration of the aspen or just a tall tale? Dave goes on to describe the method proposed.

Anyone who has removed aspen from their property or seen areas where aspen was harvested in the wild knows that they respond to sever pruning, cutting them down by sprouting hundreds of new shoots. These rapidly growing shoots will choke out the commercially more desirable species like spruce and pine. Typically these shoots are controlled by treating them with chemicals or by cutting them down. The technique Dave describes allows letting the shoot grow to several feet high and then cutting them partially through with a clearing ax , (pic above) at the base of the stem. You must only cut though enough to sever part of the stem and still leave enough to allow the tree to stand up right. Over time these damaged shoots will stop growing and eventually rot and break off at the injury. While they are slowly dying they will prevent the roots from sending up new sprouts and deplete the roots of energy resources.

While I spend most of my days trying to save trees the principles of botany that regulate pruning response could also be used to prevent a tree from re sprouting. Aspens are arguably the oldest living trees although their above ground parts don't last all that long. Aspen roots are know to live thousands of years. When aspens are injured by storms, harvesting, or by browsing the chemicals released by the buds and growing shoots to prevent sprouting and suckering are no longer present. The roots are then free to send up a tremendous flush of new sprouts. This continues until the new shoots are able to generate enough suppressing chemicals to prevent further initiation of shoots.

If you were to partially sever the phloem on the outside of the stem a small portion of the inhibiting chemical would still pass down to the roots and prevent further suckering. Also photosynthate would not travel down to the roots from where it is produced in the leaves. The roots would continue to provide water and nutrients from their stores transporting it upwards in the intact xylem. The roots would slowly starve to death. In the mean time the stems would begin to rot at the site of the injury and would eventually fall over and die as well. It is completely possible that this will work. The mechanisms of the plant regulators are more complicated than this but in this case this simple explanation will work.

I have seen trees with stems girdled by rodents leave out and look fine for a year or two and then just die once their stored energy was depleted. Dave, I hope you enjoy your multi tool. It may be small but you could use it to test this hypothesis! Good luck and thank you all for your questions.

Be Strong, Watch for the Signs

2008-09-09T02:48:00.000-07:00

This time of year we have an unparalleled opportunity to look into our trees future.

Like fortune tellers you can use your powers of observation to predict the future health of your trees and shrubs. Most trees and shrubs lose their leaves at this time of year. Even evergreens lose some leaves at certain times of the year. When and how much of their foliage is lost can give you a window on the future when it comes to the plants health.

Deciduous trees loose their leaves in a set order governed by day length, genetics and most importantly tree health. Ash trees typically lose their leaves sooner than oak trees or most maples. Within a group of trees of the same species individuals will loose their leaves at approximately the same time. Trees that loose their leaves sooner than their kin may be under stress. Insects, disease and drought can cause trees to loose their leaves prematurely. If you take the time to watch your trees at this time you may be able to identify individuals that are at risk and take action.

Birch trees that loose their leaves prematurely may have birch borers and there may still be time to treat them before next spring. Elm trees that loose their leaves prematurely may have late season infections of Dutch Elm Disease and can still be tested to see if they should be removed. Maples that are infected with verticilium wilt may have been struggling all summer and heat, combined with late season drought may have pushed your tree over the edge.

The process of losing leaves takes energy. Trees must form abscission layers at the base of the petiole, where each leaf stem meets the tree. If the tree is to weak or too diseased to form this layer it will not drop its leaves, they will simply wilt and hang on the tree. This symptom called flagging, is usually a sign that the tree has expired.

In nature there is a lot of variation between individuals of the same species and even more variation between different species. A good example of this is how some white oak species will retain a significant portion of their leaves right through winter. For white oaks this means very little. If your elm tree did the same it may have Dutch Elm Disease.

Occasionally you will have an early frost and trees will lose their leaves quite suddenly resulting in many still being left on the trees. Not to worry this is just an unusual occurrence and most trees are close to losing their leaves any way and will do so shortly even if the leaves have been frosted.

If summer continues and the first frost is a few weeks or even a month late, the trees will lose their leaves before the first frost. The wheels of change are moving as we approach winter. Take this brief opportunity to look into the future and see how healthy your trees will be next year. You may still be able to help your stressed tree get onto the road to recovery. If you are unsure of your trees health status contact your certified arborist.

Tool Time

2008-08-05T17:05:00.000-07:00

The old adage “ the right time to prune is when the saw is sharp” probably doesn't tell the whole story, but pruning with dull tools is always a disaster. The bests results come from professional-quality tools that are in good condition. Most professionals use hand bypass pruners and pole pruners day in and day out.

These can be expensive but after purchasing and being dissatisfied with several home use items I decided to purchase the pro tools and still have them after 10 years.

Pruning tools come in two basic types bypass and anvil style. Purchase only the bypass type. Anvil pruners bring a sharp blade down onto an anvil that results in a messy cut and injures your shrub. I recommend bypass pruners exclusively.

Bypass pruners work like scissors with two sharp blades opposite each other passing each other to making a clean cut. For cuts up to ½ inch in diameter a pair of sharp hand pruners work best. Bypass loppers are over sized hand pruners that will cut branches up to 2 inches in diameter.

Bypass pole pruners use the jaws of a lopper with a lever mechanism to get a mechanical advantage with out having the long handles of a lopper. This combined with the ability to insert pole sections giving you almost unlimited height makes for a very useful tool. A bypass pole pruner will work on overhead branches between ½ an inch and 1 inch. They also can be used for cutting low branches without bending over. For most homeowners 3 small 4 ft poles will be enough for shrub pruning. They are easier to fit in the trunk of your car as well. Interchangeable saw heads can be attached for tall branches.

Most pole saw heads also have a sturdy cast hook on the rear side opposite of the blade, this is used for breaking off small dead branches. You may have heard the phrase “ by hook or by crook”, this hook is the root of that statement. If you didn't have the king's permission to gather the twigs for your fire, you would fall into the later part of the quote. Another hint at the antiquity of this tool is the ring and spring arrangement that was used to secure a brush form the dark ages when all pruning cuts were to be painted over with tar. Still capable of multi tasking today the saw head can removed and used as a hand saw to cut branches larger than one inch that won't fit into your pole pruner. Professional pole saw blades are readily available and will fit wooden hand saw handles as well. Good tools will literally last you a life time so take the time to ask questions and get professional grade. If you have a pruning question or a great picture of your ancient pruning tools send them in! One question or picture will be selected at random over the next three months to receive the professional pruning multi-tool pictured at the top of this article! Send your questions and pictures from the link on the right tool bar.

Tipping the Scales

2008-07-27T06:01:00.001-07:00

Photo: K Ashton, Lecanium scale

Your plants are having the life sucked out of them, literally!

Trees and shrubs are little more than sugar factories and there is no shortage of freeloaders that want a part of this sweet treasure.

In this case the culprit isn't some vegan vampire it may be a scale, a simple insect with a big appetite.

Scales are small insects that have evolved a protective waxy coating that protects them from the elements and predators. This waxy coating, or scale, is the source of the insects name and its secret weapon. The scale often resembles a twig, bud or the bark of its host, making it difficult to identify and confusing it's predators.

The insect spends most of its life immobile, sitting under its armor, quietly sipping sap with its mouth, firmly attached to it's host. As it grows it sheds its skin which becomes part of its protective coating. At a certain point in the year it lays eggs that develop into crawlers. These small exposed crawlers are so small that they escape predators can even blow on the wind to new host plants. Once they find a suitably delicious host they insert their mouth piece into the plumbing of the host and start their high carb diet. Some of the sap goes through the scale and drips onto the foliage or branches of the plant and leaves a stick black mess. There is still lots of energy in this mess and it is attacked by a sooty colored mold.

This black sticky film on the leaves of a plant, your patio furniture, or the paint on your car is often the first sign of a scale problem.

Scales come in two categories depending on the thickness of their waxy coating. Thickly covered scales, often looking like oyster shells under the microscope, are called armored scales. Less robustly covered scales are referred to as unarmored or soft scales. Typically the soft scales are covered in a waxy or fluffy protective coating that is thinner that their armored kin. Scales tend to be very host specific each one favoring a particular species or group of plants over all others.

Two common scales in the landscape are an armored scale on spruce and a soft scale on arborvitae. Pine needle scale, Chionaspis pinifoliae is an armored scale that prefers conifers to dine on. Spruce, pine, hemlock, yew and hemlock are all affected by this scale. This scale looks like tiny grains of white rice stuck to the trees needles.Predators will keep low levels of these in check but occasionally, in our landscapes they will reach numbers that require control. There are a number of products that can be used to control these but they all are best applied when the crawlers are active. This occurs in late June to mid July. It will take several years to get adequate control.

Arborvitae, cedars, are afflicted by a soft scale called Lecanium scale, Lecanium corni. This scale has evolved to look like a small shiny bud on the stem of the tree.

Lecanium scale's crawler stage is in mid July and applications timed to hit them while they are vulnerable are most successful. If your car is covered in sticky black sugar or if find something that looks unusual on your trees contact your Arborist. They will be able to tell if that lump on the branch is a scale and recommend a plan to thwart it's sweet tooth.

Like Lightning Striking Again....

2008-06-22T11:04:00.000-07:00

Like the lines of Lou Christies smash hit, “again and again and again”, every summer I see the tragic consequences of this all to common occurrence.

The people who track these things indicate that you are more likely to be struck by lightning that win the lottery. I know trees don't by lottery tickets but plenty of them get hit by lightning.

Its is extremely rare for a mature tree to survive a lightning strike with out major damage.

In my experience large single trees on rocky out crops get hit with lightning all to often. This is the preferred habitat for oak trees and they have long been listed as the tree most likely to be struck by lightning. In fact oak is the favored tree of Zeus, the Greek god of thunder, for just that reason.

Lightning takes the path of least resistance to the ground, this may be on the wet bark on the outside of the tree, or it may penetrate into the moist cambium layer and heart wood. The tremendous energy super heats the moisture in the tree causing it to explode. This can be quite dramatic, throwing splinters and debris for great distances. The force of the explosion can even break windows and in one case blew the wall paneling off the interior walls of the house.

More often than not the lightning flashes across from the tree into the houses electrical system causing extensive damage to appliances and electronics.

The solution to this problem is a simple as Ben Franklin's kite and key experiment.

Lightning protection in trees typically consists of a thick copper conductor running from the top of the tree to a ground rod driven deep into the ground. It sounds simple and it is.

The top of the conducting wire is attached to an air tip, a conductive rod that terminates the copper lead. The lead is held to the tree with bronze stand offs that are driven into the bark. If the tree is extremely wide or has more than one main trunk several leads may branch off from the central conductor. All metallic objects in the tree must be bonded to the central lighting conductor. This includes bolts and cables used to support the structure of the tree. Specialty hardware is used to connect the system together ensuring a good electrical contact.

Lightning protection, when properly designed and installed, can reduce the risk of lighting flashing across into your home.

Does this improved grounding of the tree make it more susceptible to lightning strikes?

Probably not, but it does make it more likely to survive a direct hit. The materials are expensive and the skills needed to install the system are beyond the average home owner. Have your certified arborist inspect large trees close to your house to see if they are candidates for lightning protection. The results will pay out more reliably than the lottery.

Bored to Death!

2008-06-21T10:45:00.000-07:00

There are few trees that can rival white birch for its four season beauty in the landscape.

There are also few trees that can be so heartbreakingly disappointing when they suddenly fail. Growing up my parents had a large European white birch that gracefully dominated the front yard of our house. Every spring we would dutifully treat it to prevent bark borers.

One by one the birches in our neighborhood were removed after the slow process of dying back from the top down. Last year we took the birch down, not because of borers, it had gown so large that it no longer fit the landscape and was mechanically unstable.

The nemesis of most white birch trees is the bronze birch borer, Agrilus anxius, this North American beetle has caused extensive die offs of native birches in the past.

Most white barked birch trees are susceptible. European variety's are so prone to attack that they are not recommended for planting. In the wild birch trees prefer moist north facing slopes that allow them to have full sun on the crown of the tree and shade to keep the roots cool. This is a far cry from conditions most birches face in urban and suburban landscapes. Most birches in peoples yards are under stress. Stress makes birch trees attractive to bark beetle infestation.

The beetles lay their eggs on the rough patches of bark normally near the attachment point of branches. Eggs hatch and the larva tunnel into the cambium layer excavating zig zag tunnels around the tree cutting off the flow of sap as they destroy the trees vascular system.

Healthy trees may be able to wall the larva off by forming a callus layer around the insect and preventing it from excavating the tree tissue. More often the tree is stressed and slow to respond to the invasion and loses the battle. The callus tissue forms a lumpy mound over the larval tunnel that can be seen on the outside of the bark. The process from egg to adult can take a year or more and is dictated by the weather. Cold conditions slow the process down.

The result is active adult emergence and egg laying throughout the summer months starting in early June.

If you see the tops of your birch trees dying back you may have birch borers. Close examination of the dead branches will probably reveal raised tunnels under the bark can dark “D” shaped exit holes on the bark. Pruning out infested branches to below areas with any visible activity will be helpful. There are treatments available that can be applied to the bark or systemically to the root zone to limit the impact of the borers. Heavily infested trees should be removed from the area to prevent infestation of adjacent trees. Maintaining vigor and reducing stress factors present will be of great benefit. Properly mulching the area below the tree will help reduce root temperature and increase the vitality of existing plantings. Acting before you have any signs of borers will be of greater benefit than trying to catch up once they are present. The long term key to preventing birch decline is to chose resistant species and maintain the vigor of those that are susceptible. Contact your certified arborist for recommendations on birch trees to plant as well as maintenance regimes for your existing birches.

Lethal Weapons!

2008-05-17T07:25:00.000-07:00

In the early seventies a man was going through a car wash in Houston Texas. He was watching spinning car wash brushes when an idea hit him, like a diamond right between the eyes. Why not use rapidly spinning plastic brushes to cut grass!

George Ballas is credited for inventing the string trimmer in 1971. Who knew that a tin can, some fishing line and an electric motor could produce such a useful and potentially deadly tool. From that point in time forward no tree has been safe from its ravages!

Trees are living organisms. There bark is designed to keep moisture in and keep insects and diseases out. Bark is no match for a string trimmer designed to cut tough fibrous grass. Trees and shrubs are susceptible to string trimmer injury year round but the most devastating damage occurs in late spring. Once trees leaf out the trunk start to grow in diameter. The vascular cambium, a slippery layer of plant cells just under the bark begins to divide and produce new living cells. Some cells differentiate in to phloem tissue immediately below the bark. Other cells differentiate into xylem closer to the hard woody tissue in the center of the tree. Xylem transports water and nutrients upwards in the tree and phloem brings carbohydrates back down the tree for storage and fuel to power plant processes. While this growing and differentiating is taking place the bark is “slippery” meaning it can release from the tree exposing the living wood of the tree. This is in stark contrast to later in the year when these cells have hardened and removing the bark is almost impossible.

You can test this on a twig or small branch, just dig your fingernail under the bark and see how easily the bark releases from the living wood underneath.

Impact from a trimmer string at the slippery stage can remove whole sections of bark.

The damaged area dies and the top part of the tree becomes disconnected from the bottom. If the damage completely circles or girdles the tree the tree will die. If the damage is less extensive the tree will struggle and eventually die.

While I don't advocate returning to the dark ages and cutting each blade with hand snips, I do have a few tips that can eliminate the damage caused by string trimmers.

Remove grass and unwanted plants from the area directly around the tree. Correctly munching under trees can eliminate the need for string trimming close in. There are commercial guards available that will protect the base of the tree. I don't recommend using them unless they are the only solution as they may restrict the growth of the trees by binding the root flare. Porous 6 inch plastic drainage tile, cut into a 6 inch tube and sliced on one side will allow the tree to breath. If you have to use these guards make sure they are loose and remove them frequently to check for damage. I have had great success with this on boulevard trees where the city was maintaining the lawn.

If you have an idea to protect your trees from string trimmer damage check with your certified arborist, they are experts in tree preservation.

It's Raining Landscapers!

2008-04-30T02:38:00.000-07:00

The title of this article brings humor to a subject that is truly not funny, and may even prove fatal.

Arborists are tree care professionals with years of practical experience and extensive education that makes them experts in their fields. Having credentials alone is not enough to allow you to practice legally in most jurisdictions. State and Provincial licences prevent the lay person from pruning or treating tree diseases in most locals.

Furthermore working with trees can be extremely dangerous. Workers compensation plans are aware of the risk involved and charge higher premiums to tree care companies as a result. As a comparison landscapers typically pay 6% to 10% of every dollar in wages to their compensation plans. Tree care professionals are required to pay 30% of every dollar in wages to be properly covered for workers compensation. Liability and damage insurance are also much higher for legitimate tree care companies. Knowing these risks professionals make sure they have in house safety programs for tree climbers and tree care workers.

The International Society of Arboriculture offers training for all levels of tree care workers from the person on the ground to the most experienced climber. Professional tree care companies use these programs to insure worker safety and maintain there ability to get affordable insurance.

When you consider that statistical research has proven that in an accidental fall situation 50% of all people falling from 6 feet will die, training and proper insurance are a necessity.

Aside from the noted safety issues Arborists are tree care professionals that have the most up to date information on tree care. This ensures that you are getting todays best practices and treatments for your home's valuable assets, your landscape trees.

I work with professional landscapers everyday. Many of them have great knowledge of plants and shrubs. The best ones know their limits and know when to call in tree care professionals to complement their work on the landscape. The experienced professionals know that when your working off the ground you need to be licensed and insured. Some have learned this the hard way after damaging property or injuring themselves or their workers.

You may think you are saving a few cents hiring uninsured unqualified companies or workers. When they injure themselves on your property and seek legal redress, you won't be hiring a lawyer from the temp agency.

I have included a collage of a news item and hand bill advertisements that one commonly sees. This guy was lucky. I didn't include a different news item of a landscaper that was taking down a large tree with unskilled help. The worker was pulling the tree over with a rope he had wrapped around his arm. The tree fell the wrong way violently pulling the worker into an adjacent tree, his baseball cap offered no protection as his head was slammed against the tree. He was pronounced dead on arrival at the local hospital. A high price was paid by this worker for his lack of experience.

For your tree care contact a tree care professional, an ISA certified arborist.

Winter Injury

2008-04-27T06:11:00.000-07:00

photo MSU

For the avid plants person spring is the most thrilling and heartbreaking time of the year.

It is at this time that we get to see which of our old friends has made it through winters harsh blast.

While some trees and shrubs may look as though they are headed to the great hereafter, caution is always the rule at this time of year. More than one plant, having been given last rites, has literally come back from the roots on the compost heap! Take caution before writing a survivor off.

To understand how plants succumb to the ravages of winter we must have a basic understanding of plant physiology. Leaves are incredibly useful plant organs are notoriously fragile when it comes to freezing. Hardy trees and shrubs generally lose these most tender parts in preparation for winter. Those that don't lose their leaves have thick waxy cuticles, or skins, that prevent dessication. Dying out over winter has led to the demise of many a plant. You don't need a microscope to see how thick and durable a spruce or pine needle is, just hold it in you fingers and break it.

If you failed to water your evergreens last year they may be looking a little burnt out at this time.

Check to see if the buds are swelling and pinch the bark to see if its supple and alive. If you scrape back the bark with your finger nail you may see green, it may not be the end for this tree, wait a few weeks and see what happens.

Arborvitaes, junipers and other scale leafed evergreens may look scorched at this time of year, again wait a few weeks before you throw these babies out with the bath water. In most cases simple preparation in the fall could have prevented some if not all of these types of injuries.

Watering well until freeze up is a good strategy. Antidesicants, waxy sprays applied in the fall, are good for established plants that can have problems as well as fall planted evergreens that have yet to establish.

Late summer fertilization of evergreens is not recommended as it may delay the onset of dormancy and leave trees and shrubs susceptible to winter injury. Wait until trees are in the process of becoming dormant before fall fertilizing.

As for the trees and shrubs that are suffering from the effects of last winter? They should be watered well and monitored for signs of improvement. A small amount of fertilizer or better still an organic soil enhancer like pulverized liquid sea kelp can help with root growth and speed recovery.

Don't over water trees that have been winter injured but don't let them dry out completely either.

Use your finger to see if the soil in the root zone is dry. Be patient you may save an old friend from the compost heap.

For Strong Winds

2008-04-26T13:43:00.000-07:00

While it's true that “things will change, come what may”, it is a good idea to think about what you can do to prevent wind damage in the first place.

Knowing the resistance to wind damage of the trees your planting is a great place to start.

The following list of trees arranged from the least wind damage resistant trees to the most resistant.

LEAST RESISTANT

PINE / SPRUCE

CEDAR / JUNIPER

CHERRY / WILLOW

SILVER MAPLE

POPLAR

LINDEN

ASH

OAK

MOST RESISTANT

This list should be used as a guideline and if you decide to plant trees that are more prone to wind damage you can take steps to reduce the chance of damage.

When planting spruce plant in groups, single trees are more likely to wind throw. Spruce and pine trees need to be periodically thinned and dead wooded to open up their crowns and allow for air movement.

Trees like cherry and silver maple have hard brittle wood. Care should be taken to grow trees with good form free from co-dominate stems. These trees can be trained to have stronger structure and thinned to reduce crown density.

All trees benefit from having well drained sites. This should be arranged before planting.

Changes in drainage on your property or adjacent properties can have negative effects on your trees root systems.

Changes to grade or any injury to the roots of a tree will increase the chances of failure during strong winds. Construction on existing properties must take into consideration the effects on the root systems of mature trees. It take surprisingly little traffic to injure the roots of large trees.

Mature trees should be inspected for dangerous rot and large dead branches on a seasonal basis. Large dead branches should be removed promptly to prevent unexpected failure. Keeping the trees crown clean allows you to spot new dead branches and monitor the tree for signs of decline. Take the time to look at your trees before the wind sets you landscape back years! If your not sure what to look for contact your certified arborist.

Who Has Seen The Wind?

2008-03-24T17:25:00.001-07:00

The title of this article pays homage to W.O. Mitchell's tale of life on the prairies during the dust bowl years. I don't think that there could be a more fitting title for a frank discussion of the visible effects of strong winds. We really don't see the wind, what we do see daily is its dramatic effects on the trees in our landscapes.

Trees are long lived stationary organisms that deal with wind on a day to day basis.

The events that lead to dramatic and some times tragic failures of trees, branches or entire forests often depend on changes to the the trees normal environment.

Take for instance wind, both its direction and strength. For any given location winds will come from a prevailing direction. Trees grow roots and crowns in patterns that compensate for this type of wind. A wind coming from any direction other than the prevailing direction, will cause more damage. Winds also blow at predictable strengths for most locations. Unusually strong winds from any direction will cause extensive damage to trees.

People have been watching the effects of wind long before hi-tech devices to measure wind speeds were available. Knowing common indicators of wind speed can give you some insight into tree damage and failure. One system of measuring wind speed related to its action on sailing ships was developed by Sir Francis Beaufort, a British admiral. The scale was updated over the years to include wind indicators for those of us on land. Beaufort's scale indicates that little tree damage occurs below 22 mph ( 35 km/h). At 27 mph, ( 44 km/h) umbrella use becomes impossible and large branches begin to sway. As wind increases up to 42 mph ( 68 km/h ) twigs begin to break off of the larger branches. Damage continues to increase and when you reach 60 mph ( 96 km/h) whole trees begin to topple over. Beyond this point damage increases dramatically.

What Beaufort's scale fails to take into account are the site conditions of the trees. Trees that are in full leaf will fail at much lower wind speeds. My own personal observations indicate that at 42 mph ( 68 km/h) trees in full leaf in saturated soils will topple readily. Soils that are drenched with rain or melt water do not hold roots with the same strength as when they are dry. Trees that have lost their leaves and are in frozen soil can survive much stronger winds. Drought stressed trees lose fine roots that anchor the support roots of the tree. The result can be increased potential for wind throw.

The answer to the question “ Why did this tree fail?” can be complicated. The correct answer may include the following: Root loss due to drought. Unstable soil conditions due to rain or thawing. Wind blowing from an unusual direction. Wind blowing at unusually high speeds. Rot or decay in the root system. Decay in the trunk of the tree. Recent or past construction in the area. One has to take all the factors into consideration to determine when a tree will fail. The answer to the failure question may be quite simple. Once trees or limbs are dead they begin a slow countdown to the moment when they break off and succumb to gravity. This is often chaotic and unfortunately can be tragic. A properly trained arborist can identify potential hazards an hopefully avert unfortunate failures of trees and branches. When was the last time your trees had your trees inspected?