Whats's Old is Ancient

While it is difficult to sell tree preservation techniques that have been practiced for hundreds of years as new, reexamining ancient tree cultural methods may be just what we need to do. I have been interested in preserving trees right from the start of my career in arboriculture. I used to camp and canoe along the Souris River back in the 1980's and was amazed to see what was then billed as a 500 year old Burr Oak. Even then I remember being underwhelmed by its stature. Thirty years later it is still standing and I am only now able to see the beauty of its aged form. As an ISA Certified Arborist I am required to participate in a minimum of ten hours of continuing education per year to maintain my certification. Beyond maintaining my certification CEUs keep you current with the latest techniques and methods. Most legitimate professional accreditation programs realize that with research, methods and concepts change and what you took as fact yesterday may be proven to be fiction or close to it by the latest scientific research.
As part of my CEU requirement I was excited to participate in a two part session with Philip van Wassenaer, a preeminent expert on “Veteran Trees” from Eastern Canada.
For many years fear of litigation rather than solid research has driven the field of arboriculture when it came to dealing with vintage trees. No one wants to see anyone get hurt, but there are individuals and tree companies that offset their expenses and increase their income by playing on peoples fears about older trees. The duty of care for aged trees falls squarely on the shoulders of the property owner, but they should be well informed and presented with treatment options that include preservation as well as removal. Taking these ancient giants down unnecessarily struck me a bit like drinking a fine bottle of wine just to get the 10 cents bottle deposit. Modern arboriculture has evolved from the techniques of tree surgeons and plants men of a hundred years ago and is now reexamining the very techniques that may have been discounted.

The first step in conservation arboriculture is a thorough examination of the tree to possibly be preserved. Hollows and cracks along with declining canopies do not necessarily mean that a tree removal is imminent. Carefully examining the tree with modern methods will allow a current accurate diagnosis of the long term viability of the tree as well as its hazard potential.
One of the greatest revelations from the presentation and the too short field trip was grasping the concept that trees grow for a long time, and go through senescence for a longer time. Just as the youthful or mature form of the tree has great beauty so can the gnarled battle worn veteran be a beautiful presence in the landscape. With this new knowledge I rushed to the computer and found an image of The Souris Old Oak Tree and it is in exactly the beautiful mature form that Philip had described.
If you have a “Veteran Tree“or are interested in tree preservation contact an ISA Certified Arborist who is knowledgeable in the techniques to preserve and maintain these ancient giants

Time to Plant

The best time to plant a tree was 20 Years ago the second best time is right now. This old Chinese saying gives us pause to think at this time when our thoughts are far removed from planting. If you're like me you have already started to receive and peruse next years garden catalogs. Its nice to look back over the past years or years plantings and reflect on what worked and what didn't . I started planting back in boy scouts and haven't stopped!

I was driving along mountain road a few years back and was surprised to see that a forest had grown where there was only marginal farm land in the early seventies.

There is much that can be done individually and even more that can be done locally . This is an age of local actions and global results. No one is going to pick up the shovel for you or locate the trees or find a suitable site!
I have given these key steps in reverse order intentionally, now we will review them in the order they should be placed in. Before you can plant a tree or trees you should always have a site plan. If you are planting in your own yard you may not need permission, if you are planing a public or common space planting you will have to determine who the proper person or persons are to get access. See if they have a policy in place and have a brief idea of the location you would like to plant in. Having a plan In place will help you to clearly articulate your intentions to the appropriate persons and make it easy for them to give you directions and prevent confusion.

You may want to plant alone or with a small group of helpers. Tree planting is a lot of hard work and is also a lot of fun. Selecting the right tree for your chosen site is very important. this would be he right time to consult your ISA Certified Arborist who will be able to help select the correct tree for your site. Once you have planted your tree make sure you have a plan for after care. Trees planted in yards typically have better soil conditions and nutrient levels then those planted in boulevards or along streets. Arborists are experts on local planting conditions and may advise you to have a soil sample taken to test for fertility.

The larger the tree you are planting the longer it takes for it to recover from transplant shock. The generally accepted rule is an inch of trunk diameter per year of recovery. For example. One inch in diameter tree, measured at 4 feet above ground, will take one year to reestablish itself and start to put on new growth , a two inch- two years and so on. The larger trees really give immediate visual impact but are harder to reestablish and more prone to failure. This is probably why the small trees I planted , only a few inches tall, survived without much help after being planted by unskilled pre-teens who struggled to handle a spade!

ISA certified Arborists are tree experts and the original tree huggers who have the Skill and knowledge to help make your planting a success. Reach out to your Arborist and get his advice on your planting project and success will be much improved. You may not be able to plant today but you will be able to plan.

Buried Treasure

It often amazes me how peoples lack of understanding about the growth habits and nature of trees can reach such depths of ignorance. Before I rant on about post construction tree decline a little background will make sure we are all on the same plane. Trees are among the longest lived organisms on earth. There are trees, trembling aspens that have been growing from the same roots for tens of thousands of years, individual bristle cone pine trees have been know to grow beyond a thousand years. It is unusual for trees to get this old but not unheard of. In the forest an oak tree may live to be 300 years old, in a city park this will be reduced to 150 years, in a typical yard, 75 years and 7 years in a planting pit on a street. The longevity problem for most trees isn't genetics, its site conditions. Trees obviously can not move, but with modern construction equipment we have the ability to change site conditions drasticaly in little more than an instant. Most modern site preparation takes a few days which in the life of a tree is pretty much instantaneous.
The same trees, same genetics, different sites.
7 years to 10 years is the average time it takes for a tree to decline and die post construction.
Trees are not utility poles, they are not fence posts or pipes that can be buried and forgotten. Trees are not carrots, they have wide expansive root systems that are living, breathing and growing just like all parts of the tree.
With all this in mind and having seen thousands of trees on hundreds of sites in various damaged and declining states. I was shocked when I came upon the following scene.
A mature 28 inch Eastern hemlock had toppled in a strong wind, but its normally shallow root system had not popped out of the ground, in fact it was still 30 inches below the soil surface. At some point in the recent past the area had been regraded and the hollow the tree had been growing in for 50 years had been filled in, bringing it up to level with the surrounding trees. There was little outward indication of damage, with the exception of the lack of root flare, the swelling at the base of trees where it goes into the ground. Close examination of the fallen tree revealed this feature and the first true root, 24 plus inches below the soil surface. All this complaining would be only for my benefit if I didn't pass the following information on. If you have an ISA Certified Arborist come out prior to construction you will dramatically increase your trees chances for survival, if you follow their recommendations. If you have an ISA Certified Arborist assess your situation and make recommendations post construction you will have a greater survival ratio of your construction impacted trees.
ISA Certified Arborists are the recognized experts in tree preservation, before, during and after construction. Contact your ISA certified arborist before your greatest treasures are buried.

Tree Searching

Information and knowledge are not the same. Online search engines have a wealth of information but they may not impart any knowledge that is of use to the seeker. A popular TV commercial has people conversing using information searches from various search sites and it ends up in meaningless chaos.

What does this have to do with the care and preservation of trees? Plenty. If you were looking for a particular plant disease, for instance, Rhizosphera needle cast , a disease that can seriously injure Colorado Blue Spruce, your search is just as likely to end up looking at knitting needles or plaster cast construction guides. While this information is extremely useful it may not be the knowledge that you need to see what is defoliating your trees.

Chronic Google Heads spend hours trying to sift through useless information for a kernel of sound knowledge. How do I know this? more and more often while meeting with new clients I have to impart knowledge that I have gained through rigorous study and years of field observations to counter a few hours of Google searching. Some information is just not relevant to the particular species or cultivar, and other information is excluded because of geography, climate or soil conditions.

On one hand I am excited and encouraged by the clients enthusiasm and energy to help their plants, on the other hand it is discouraging to see so many people being side tracked by useless information. I guess that was part of my original purpose for writing this series of monthy press releases over the past 8 years.

The starting point for identifying tree and shrub problems is always correctly identifying the plant, and then the disease or insect that is affecting it.

The missing link in all this searching is a dedicated, informed expert who is capable of determining what is the best course of action to correct the problem your particular tree or shrub is having. Sometimes the best action is no action!

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying trees, shrubs and the diseases and insects that affect them. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your tree has a problem that may reduce its ability to thrive. The knowledge you gain will benefit your trees and save you time by not becoming Google-mired.

Lichen, Moss, and More

Every couple of weeks I get a call to go out and look at a terrifying disease that is threatening someones prize specimen tree. It is easy to make light of this, but the sense alarm felt by the home owner is genuine, and one should never make fun of someone who is genuinely concerned with the health of trees. Typically these calls come after a soaking rain when the bark of the tree erupts into a verdant green carpet, or possibly a gray-green bouquet of fronds. The culprits are two ancient inhabitants of the forest, that may even predated the arrival of trees. Lichen have been around for at least 400 million years and their neighbors the moss are found in the fossil record back to the beginning of the Permian period, 300 million years B.P.

Moss, a fuzzy or sometimes minutely leafy, non vascular plant, is classified in the group of plants know as Bryophyta. Moss plants will grow on most moist shady surfaces like rocks, trees and soil. They prefer not to be exposed to direct light and therefore are most often found on the north side of tree trunks. Moss plants need free moisture to complete there life cycle but will survive for long period of time in a dry desiccated state. If they receive sufficient moisture they will “green up” and come to life with in a short period of time, seemingly overnight. Moss does not have the waxy outer leaf layer known as the cuticle that prevents most higher plants from drying out. Moss are able to survive on what amounts to essentially dust and rain drops. They do not harm trees and do not digest the bark they are attached to.

Lichen on the other hand are not really considered plants at all but are a curious symbiotic relationship between a fungus and an algae. The fungal partner provides nutrients and a physical structure for the algae. The algal partner is able to photosynthesize and create sugars to feed both partners. Both partners present in lichen gain moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere. It is rare for them to take any nutrition from a tree that they are growing on. Lichen are usually larger than moss and have a blueish green color. The algae partner may be a blue-green algae which would explain the lichens color. Lichen can have several different forms from crusty or crustose , or foliate forms that resemble leaves, called foliose. Lichens simple structure means they are unable to avoid the accumulation of damaging pollutants. In fact they can be used as a measure of air quality. A decline in lichen populations is indicative of high levels of pollution. The presence of moss and lichen usual indicate moist conditions, and reasonable air quality. The presence of mushrooms and other fungi may be more serious.

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying moss, lichen and dangerous tree fungi. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your tree has something more serious than moss .

Any Ash is Good Ash?

Photo K. Arrell

When I was learning to identify trees I had an instructor who was great at coming up with catch phrases to remember tree I.D. I still remember his comments on ash trees which I have used as the title for this article. Ash trees have long been prized for its adaptability, survivability and versatility. Lately it has also been in the news for its susceptibility.

Anthracnose is a common fungal disease of both green and white ashes. It occurs seasonally in spring and can result in the defoliation of the lower third of the tree. Buds, twigs, and leaves can become infected. Typically leaves will exhibit irregular or sickle shaped distortions as well as blotchy lesions.Severely impacted leaves may be shed from the tree and should be removed from the area as they are a source of reinfection. On occasion the disease may attack the petiole, or leaf stem resulting in extensive defoliation. Cultural practices general are effective in reducing the extent of the disease and preventative fungicides applied at bud break should only be used as a last resort.

Ash yellows is a vascular disease of ash trees is caused by a phytoplasm, a type of microbe. Both white and green ash are affected as well as a dozen other ash species. Susceptibility varies among species and individual trees with the most severely impacted trees dying within months. More resistant trees may last for years with various symptoms. Stunted sickly growth, and the presence of witches brooms, thick broom like growths, are the main symptoms. This disease is spread by insects that feed on leaves by sucking sap. Maintaining the vigor of less severely impacted trees may prolong their lives, heavily impacted trees should be removed.

Ash plant bug is a native pest that does damage to ash leaves by inserting its sap sucking mouth parts into the upper surface of leaves. This action causes yellow stippled areas that may coalesce into large yellow patches. The feeding may cause browning and distortion of foliage that can be confused with anthracnose. One key way to differentiate between the two is to look at the underside of the effected leaves and you may find black spots, waste from the plant bugs called frass. These insects have two generations per year and may cause extensive damage. They are easily controlled by a number of insecticides applied early in the season , including horticultural soaps and oils

Emerald ash borers are a newer introduced threat to ash trees. The original infestation was probably the result of green wood in the form of packing materials that originated in the beetles home range, Eastern Asia. The adults themselves feed on the leaves of ash trees but cause little damage. In late June to early July, they lay their eggs on the bark of ash trees usually in cracks crevices and fissures. The eggs hatch, burrow into the inner bark, the cambium layer, and begin to chew their way though the vascular cambium in up to foot long serpentine feeding galleries. The tree is unable to survive the injury to its vascular system, starts to wilt and die back and will last only one to three years once infested. Avoid transporting ash nursery stock or fire wood.

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying ash disease and insect problems. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your ash tree has problems.

Root Self Exam

Few tree failures are as tragic as ones caused by girdling roots. This condition, caused by roots that have circled the main trunk growing to eventually strangle the tree, results in a slow decline and eventual death of trees in their prime.
This condition can occur with a wide variety of trees, maples, cherries, plums and pines are a few on the ones I have personally observed in the last few months.
Normal root systems extend from the root flare at the base of the main stem and move away from the stem like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. The roots that cause trouble, circle around the tree and constrict the main stem. Tree roots that cross other roots further away from the main stem cause little damage and my even form unions or grafts that result in no damage at all.
If you let the girdling roots go unchecked they will eventually cause the tree to die back and decline to the point of failure.
Fortunately you can easily observe tell tale signs that are indicative of root problems on your own trees.
Trees should have a basal flare where the main stem meets the soil surface. This sometimes pronounced swelling should lead from main stem to root in smooth curve.
Flattening of one side of the stem can indicate a buried root that is pressing on the main stem and causing stress on the trees vascular system. The root actually compresses the tissues of the tree preventing the movement of water up the stem and nutrients down to the roots. You may even see decline on that side of the tree. Small leaves and reduced growth on one or more sides is another typical symptom. If you are able, grasp the tree and slowly shake or try to move it, it should be firm and not rotate. Small trees with girdling roots will move like the stick shift in a manual car.
Occasionally, the tree will not display any outward obvious symptoms yet will fail when extreme weather conditions overwhelm the trees circulatory system. Periods of drought or extreme heat can result in this type of failure. Once the tree has failed a close examination will reveal the obvious signs of girdling roots. Take a look for these telltale signs:

Large roots that are visibly crossing the trunk of the tree
Lack of typical root flare on one or more sides of the tree
Yellow or smaller leaves on one side of a tree
Recessed, inverted or flattened root flares that curve inward like the point of a pencil
Instability in small trees when manually shaken or pushed

I.S.A.Certified Arborists are knowledgeable in identifying and correcting girdling root problems. Take the time to consult with your Certified Arborist if you suspect your tree has rooting problems. You may be able to limit the damage caused by girdling roots and prolong the life of your tree.